The longer I spend in Quepos/Manuel Antonio, the more I realize that it is quite an armpit of a place. Quepos is filled with drug addicts. It is so sketchy to walk around at night. And even the taxis might rob you (moreso the pirate taxis).
Saturday, I am off to Alajuela, a town outside of San Jose. I think I am going to do tours around there for the few days that I'm there. I don't have a guidebook, and really, the longer I stay in Costa Rica, the longer I realize that it is not the paradise that everyone envisions. Hard drugs are rampant as is crime.
One of our classmates is missing right now. He went to a bar with a few other classmates, then went to a casino afterwards last night. His host family called up here saying that he hadn't come home last night. It doesn't sound good. He is the type of person to at least drop by the school and say hi (he was done with his coursework yesterday). We are all pretty worried...
Something you won't hear me say very often...I am ready to go home...
Thursday, April 3, 2008
Sunday, March 23, 2008
Speaking of torrential downpours...
We had one Friday night. I didn't get caught in it, so that was good. Made it home by then. It cooled down the weather, which was nice. I opened the door to the balcony all evening.
As for my birthday, I did walk into Quepos and luckily, Sugar, a really yummy pastry shop, was open. I treated myself to a delicious slice of chocolate strawberry cake and a strawberry milk shake. It filled me up so much that I didn't even have much for dinner.
Yesterday, I walked down the road by Cafe Milagro that goes down to the beach. I ended up at Playa Beasaenz (or Basanez?). It was a small beach, more of a local scene. Very shallow and rocky. I stayed there for a bit, then walked up the road to the main road to catch a bus to Playa Manuel Antonio. But oh, it is Semana Santa, and the busses are packed and the beach is full. The first bus passed by and wouldn't let anyone on. I had to wait another 30 minutes for the next bus, which was reluctant to let anyone on. But luckily, he let 3 of us on. We were packed in there tighter than sardines. I had my arm fully extended to hold on to a side bar, and tried to brace myself for the downhill curvy road. It was adventurous, nevertheless.
I played around in the ocean for about 45 minutes before heading back to my apartment. I was on my way to meet up with Susan, who owns Books2Go in Quepos. It's the shops 3rd year anniversary, and she invited a few of us to hang out, have some rice and cake. A few of us from TEFL showed up - me, Henry, Martin, and Brian (the new teacher). It was good to hang out, take it easy.
Then afterwards, Henry and I hit the beach. Yeah, the beach again! It was so nice not to work. Just to play. The beach was packed, but I didn't care because I just wanted to be in the ocean, since I had barely seen it in my 2 weeks here! We stayed for sunset and then headed back towards town.
A bunch of us had planned to meet up at Barba Roja, a restaurant/bar at 10:30pm. I got home at about 7pm, so I had about 3ish hours to work. I crammed in some work before playtime.
Luckily, Barba Roja is only about a 5 minute walk for me (yay, something close by!), so I walked there. I ran into Dallas while waiting in line, then Henry showed up shortly after. For the girls, the cover charge was 1000 colones ($2), and we got 3 drinks (anything with rum or vodka, that is). And for the guys, it was 5000 colones ($10) and they got no drinks. Quite a rip off for the guys, eh?
Inside the place, we ran into Christine and Casey, who were hanging out with the 2 guys that live by TEFL. We see them all the time. Usually wave and say hello. It was good times. We drank, danced, and had a good time.
All in all, it was a good Saturday. As for today, I went to the beach this morning to relax for a bit. And now I'm up at school. Time for work! Maybe I'll treat myself to dinner tonight..who knows...
As for my birthday, I did walk into Quepos and luckily, Sugar, a really yummy pastry shop, was open. I treated myself to a delicious slice of chocolate strawberry cake and a strawberry milk shake. It filled me up so much that I didn't even have much for dinner.
Yesterday, I walked down the road by Cafe Milagro that goes down to the beach. I ended up at Playa Beasaenz (or Basanez?). It was a small beach, more of a local scene. Very shallow and rocky. I stayed there for a bit, then walked up the road to the main road to catch a bus to Playa Manuel Antonio. But oh, it is Semana Santa, and the busses are packed and the beach is full. The first bus passed by and wouldn't let anyone on. I had to wait another 30 minutes for the next bus, which was reluctant to let anyone on. But luckily, he let 3 of us on. We were packed in there tighter than sardines. I had my arm fully extended to hold on to a side bar, and tried to brace myself for the downhill curvy road. It was adventurous, nevertheless.
I played around in the ocean for about 45 minutes before heading back to my apartment. I was on my way to meet up with Susan, who owns Books2Go in Quepos. It's the shops 3rd year anniversary, and she invited a few of us to hang out, have some rice and cake. A few of us from TEFL showed up - me, Henry, Martin, and Brian (the new teacher). It was good to hang out, take it easy.
Then afterwards, Henry and I hit the beach. Yeah, the beach again! It was so nice not to work. Just to play. The beach was packed, but I didn't care because I just wanted to be in the ocean, since I had barely seen it in my 2 weeks here! We stayed for sunset and then headed back towards town.
A bunch of us had planned to meet up at Barba Roja, a restaurant/bar at 10:30pm. I got home at about 7pm, so I had about 3ish hours to work. I crammed in some work before playtime.
Luckily, Barba Roja is only about a 5 minute walk for me (yay, something close by!), so I walked there. I ran into Dallas while waiting in line, then Henry showed up shortly after. For the girls, the cover charge was 1000 colones ($2), and we got 3 drinks (anything with rum or vodka, that is). And for the guys, it was 5000 colones ($10) and they got no drinks. Quite a rip off for the guys, eh?
Inside the place, we ran into Christine and Casey, who were hanging out with the 2 guys that live by TEFL. We see them all the time. Usually wave and say hello. It was good times. We drank, danced, and had a good time.
All in all, it was a good Saturday. As for today, I went to the beach this morning to relax for a bit. And now I'm up at school. Time for work! Maybe I'll treat myself to dinner tonight..who knows...
Friday, March 21, 2008
Meltdown!!!!!
Wednesday. Meltdown.
I was really looking forward to my birthday this year. It is today. Does it feel like my birthday? Not really...
Wednesday was when all the shit hit the fan. The class I'm taking is so intense, moreso that I could ever imagine. We had only been in class for 1.5 weeks. And all of a sudden. Wednesday came around. We were given our teaching assignments. For the next 2 weeks, we have to teach. We each have to teach 6 classes (over the 2 weeks), do 2 one-on-one lessons with someone we pick (I did mine with a lady I met at the bus stop), and had a grammar and phonology test today.
Lucky me. I am the first to teach on Monday. Monday morning at 8am, I will be teaching at the hair salon. There will be 1-4 students. You never know what will happen there. And today, we were supposed to watch Pauline do teach there. We have only seen the demo teachings in classroom settings. The hair salon has some particular things about layout that you have to consider.
Well, today is Good Friday. Pretty much all of Costa Rica takes off. We're in the midst of Semana Santa. And so the busses weren't running today. I walked a good way from Manuel Antonio to Quepos (luckly, it's all downhill), then caught a taxi (say collectivo and it's 400 colones versus some 1500+ colones). Our class waited in front of the hair salon...many stores in Quepos are closed up for the holidays. And such was the hair salon. They decided they didn't want to learn today. So we all went back uphill to the TEFL building.
I was really looking forward to watching Pauline teach, so I could see the dynamic amongst the workers at hair salon. And also, so that I could see how it was set up, and what kind of space I would be able to use. Nope. I'm going in blind. And first.
Well anyways, so back to Wednesday. It's like a torrential downpour came down on us (students). So much work. Holy shit, so much work. No idea where to begin. No idea. I have to meet in an hour to discuss what I'm going to teach? What? I haven't even thought about it! Not to mention homework, too. We had grammar homework.
The teachers looked at me. I stared blankly at them. But finally, some thoughts came forward. Just a few.
Wednesday, I left class, walked down to Quepos as I do everyday. I waited for my bus. And oh, I waited. Wednesday of Semana Santa is when the Ticos take off. Everyone is heading for the beaches. And Quepos was busy. The bus took forever to get there. I was hot, tired, stressed.
I got on and luckily got a window seat. The bus was packed full. And hot. Steamy hot. I found it hard to breathe, especially with all of the extra stress from the day. What was I thinking. What have I gotten myself into. Do I really want to teach English? My asthma kicked in a bit on the ride home.
I was so excited to get off the bus. I was able to breathe easier. First things first. I'm going to get to my apartment, go upstairs, and jump in the pool. I have been so busy with the class that I haven't even had the chance to go to the pool yet. Damn it, I'm going. And wow, what a moment. The pool actually has a nice view, you can see the ocean, and the clouds from the sunset. I was the only one up there. I had it all to myself. I swam to get the stress out. Then laid down on the warm concrete beside the pool, enjoying my upward view of the moon, the sun lit clouds. Ahhhh...much better.
After my de-stressing swim, I decided to treat myself to dinner. It's a rare occasion since things are so expensive here and I'm well over budget. But I deserved it, damn it!
I felt so much better after dinner. Refreshed. But when I went home, I was back to it again. Nose deep in the books...
As for today, I turned 31. Celebrations? Not really. I think after I've got my lesson plan approved and I'm done on the internet, I think I will head down to Quepos, see if there is a bakery open, and buy myself a slice of cake. That'll be my celebration. Unfortunately, the busses aren't running today. So I will have to take an expensive cab ride home (too far to walk uphill!). So all I can afford (hopefully) is a slice of cake. That is, if there is a bakery open...
I was really looking forward to my birthday this year. It is today. Does it feel like my birthday? Not really...
Wednesday was when all the shit hit the fan. The class I'm taking is so intense, moreso that I could ever imagine. We had only been in class for 1.5 weeks. And all of a sudden. Wednesday came around. We were given our teaching assignments. For the next 2 weeks, we have to teach. We each have to teach 6 classes (over the 2 weeks), do 2 one-on-one lessons with someone we pick (I did mine with a lady I met at the bus stop), and had a grammar and phonology test today.
Lucky me. I am the first to teach on Monday. Monday morning at 8am, I will be teaching at the hair salon. There will be 1-4 students. You never know what will happen there. And today, we were supposed to watch Pauline do teach there. We have only seen the demo teachings in classroom settings. The hair salon has some particular things about layout that you have to consider.
Well, today is Good Friday. Pretty much all of Costa Rica takes off. We're in the midst of Semana Santa. And so the busses weren't running today. I walked a good way from Manuel Antonio to Quepos (luckly, it's all downhill), then caught a taxi (say collectivo and it's 400 colones versus some 1500+ colones). Our class waited in front of the hair salon...many stores in Quepos are closed up for the holidays. And such was the hair salon. They decided they didn't want to learn today. So we all went back uphill to the TEFL building.
I was really looking forward to watching Pauline teach, so I could see the dynamic amongst the workers at hair salon. And also, so that I could see how it was set up, and what kind of space I would be able to use. Nope. I'm going in blind. And first.
Well anyways, so back to Wednesday. It's like a torrential downpour came down on us (students). So much work. Holy shit, so much work. No idea where to begin. No idea. I have to meet in an hour to discuss what I'm going to teach? What? I haven't even thought about it! Not to mention homework, too. We had grammar homework.
The teachers looked at me. I stared blankly at them. But finally, some thoughts came forward. Just a few.
Wednesday, I left class, walked down to Quepos as I do everyday. I waited for my bus. And oh, I waited. Wednesday of Semana Santa is when the Ticos take off. Everyone is heading for the beaches. And Quepos was busy. The bus took forever to get there. I was hot, tired, stressed.
I got on and luckily got a window seat. The bus was packed full. And hot. Steamy hot. I found it hard to breathe, especially with all of the extra stress from the day. What was I thinking. What have I gotten myself into. Do I really want to teach English? My asthma kicked in a bit on the ride home.
I was so excited to get off the bus. I was able to breathe easier. First things first. I'm going to get to my apartment, go upstairs, and jump in the pool. I have been so busy with the class that I haven't even had the chance to go to the pool yet. Damn it, I'm going. And wow, what a moment. The pool actually has a nice view, you can see the ocean, and the clouds from the sunset. I was the only one up there. I had it all to myself. I swam to get the stress out. Then laid down on the warm concrete beside the pool, enjoying my upward view of the moon, the sun lit clouds. Ahhhh...much better.
After my de-stressing swim, I decided to treat myself to dinner. It's a rare occasion since things are so expensive here and I'm well over budget. But I deserved it, damn it!
I felt so much better after dinner. Refreshed. But when I went home, I was back to it again. Nose deep in the books...
As for today, I turned 31. Celebrations? Not really. I think after I've got my lesson plan approved and I'm done on the internet, I think I will head down to Quepos, see if there is a bakery open, and buy myself a slice of cake. That'll be my celebration. Unfortunately, the busses aren't running today. So I will have to take an expensive cab ride home (too far to walk uphill!). So all I can afford (hopefully) is a slice of cake. That is, if there is a bakery open...
Wednesday, March 19, 2008
Will work for food?
I had my first one-on-one teaching session yesterday evening. I met a lady at my bus stop on Saturday who started to take the TEFL English courses (they are free to Ticos), but thought that they were too advanced for her, so she quit going.
I told her that I needed a student to teach, so I offered her my services. She asked me how much it costs. I told her the lessons are free because I need to do it to practice to get my certification. She was really excited, and started to recite a few words that she knew in English.
We arranged a day and a time. All of this was done in Spanish, so I was not 100% sure. But what I got out of it was that she was going to San Jose for the weekend, and that she was going to return on Tuesday, return for Semana Santa. We were to meet at her apartment on Tuesday (yesterday) at 7pm.
Yesterday was a tough, long day. Class from 8:30 to 5:20pm. After class, I went down to Quepos (my daily little walk downhill) and caught the first bus to Manuel Antonio. Of course, the waiting for the bus factors into the time schedule. I got home, ate a can of tuna and crackers, rested for a few minutes, then went to my one on one.
It is already dark here at 7pm. Raymond, my roommate, warned me that the area by the soccer fields is a little sketchy. And yes, it was. Emily, my student, lived on the street next to the soccer fields. I went in search of her apartment complex. Of course, nothing was labelled. I ended up walking past her place, then asking a lady I saw on the street. She pointed me in the right direction.
I got to the apartment complex, but again, nothing is labelled. I have no idea where in the complex Emily lives. I knocked on the first door I found, a bit apprehensive. A lady, an expat from somewhere, answered the door. She did not know who Emily was, so she asked someone else, who pointed me in the right direction.
Emily, an older lady who sells lingerie, and her husband Edgar, a pensioner (retiree) are very sweet. The lesson went longer than expected, but was okay. Actually, I did have some issues -- I told her that all of the lesson needed to be in English, but there was Spanish used as well. Didn't quite go as I wanted to. But learning did take place...
Edgar and Emily have been trying to learn, little by little. Edgar brought out a Spanish-English dictionary and was inquisitive of pronunciation and what words actually meant. Needless to say, it was a more of a one on two lesson.
Since the area by the soccer fields is sketchy (Edgar said a lot of people do drugs there), they planned to walk me back to the main road. However, Emily wanted to take a shower first. Edgar and I watched TV -- tennis, to be specific, as Emily showered. Then she made me a watermelon drink and gave me some bread that she had made (pan casero). In my mind was..um..when are they going to walk me up?
I told them that I had to go since I have homework to do. Emily gave me a mango. And then we walked up to the main road. They told me that whenever I wanted to drop by, to drop by for dinner. Anyday. And on Thursday, we have another session together. Edgar showed me a fish that he caught in the river that he may cook up.
So it sounds like I am working for food..hehe. Edgar and Emily are the sweetest couple. I feel a bit intrusive, but I think it is their culture to be very giving people.
Looking forward to dinner tomorrow night!
I told her that I needed a student to teach, so I offered her my services. She asked me how much it costs. I told her the lessons are free because I need to do it to practice to get my certification. She was really excited, and started to recite a few words that she knew in English.
We arranged a day and a time. All of this was done in Spanish, so I was not 100% sure. But what I got out of it was that she was going to San Jose for the weekend, and that she was going to return on Tuesday, return for Semana Santa. We were to meet at her apartment on Tuesday (yesterday) at 7pm.
Yesterday was a tough, long day. Class from 8:30 to 5:20pm. After class, I went down to Quepos (my daily little walk downhill) and caught the first bus to Manuel Antonio. Of course, the waiting for the bus factors into the time schedule. I got home, ate a can of tuna and crackers, rested for a few minutes, then went to my one on one.
It is already dark here at 7pm. Raymond, my roommate, warned me that the area by the soccer fields is a little sketchy. And yes, it was. Emily, my student, lived on the street next to the soccer fields. I went in search of her apartment complex. Of course, nothing was labelled. I ended up walking past her place, then asking a lady I saw on the street. She pointed me in the right direction.
I got to the apartment complex, but again, nothing is labelled. I have no idea where in the complex Emily lives. I knocked on the first door I found, a bit apprehensive. A lady, an expat from somewhere, answered the door. She did not know who Emily was, so she asked someone else, who pointed me in the right direction.
Emily, an older lady who sells lingerie, and her husband Edgar, a pensioner (retiree) are very sweet. The lesson went longer than expected, but was okay. Actually, I did have some issues -- I told her that all of the lesson needed to be in English, but there was Spanish used as well. Didn't quite go as I wanted to. But learning did take place...
Edgar and Emily have been trying to learn, little by little. Edgar brought out a Spanish-English dictionary and was inquisitive of pronunciation and what words actually meant. Needless to say, it was a more of a one on two lesson.
Since the area by the soccer fields is sketchy (Edgar said a lot of people do drugs there), they planned to walk me back to the main road. However, Emily wanted to take a shower first. Edgar and I watched TV -- tennis, to be specific, as Emily showered. Then she made me a watermelon drink and gave me some bread that she had made (pan casero). In my mind was..um..when are they going to walk me up?
I told them that I had to go since I have homework to do. Emily gave me a mango. And then we walked up to the main road. They told me that whenever I wanted to drop by, to drop by for dinner. Anyday. And on Thursday, we have another session together. Edgar showed me a fish that he caught in the river that he may cook up.
So it sounds like I am working for food..hehe. Edgar and Emily are the sweetest couple. I feel a bit intrusive, but I think it is their culture to be very giving people.
Looking forward to dinner tomorrow night!
Tuesday, March 11, 2008
first day of school
Yesterday was the first day of TEFL school. I have to say that it was pretty intense, but it went well. Little did I know that I would be learning a completely new language as well. We started to learn the language of the Boruca people, natives to Costa Rica. The learning of the language taught us how it would feel as non-native speakers and complete beginners. It was quite awkward at first, but then became a little (and I say a little) more natural.
Today, I had to do my first presentation -- memorize 6 lines and teach them to the class, using pictures, body gestures, and repetition. It went just fine. Since I am used to giving complex presentations from university, I did not have many problems. I stumbled a little bit, but it was not bad.
We also learned more of the Boruca language today. I am feeling more comfortable with it. At least the bits that we have learned. So for this weekend, I have signed up for a trip that goes to the Borucan village. We will stay with a host family and learn about the culture and language. It is a bit expensive for me to do at $90 for the trip, but I think that the opportunities to do something like this are pretty rare. We need 3 more people to sign up, so we'll see if the trip even happens...
So far, so good. My apartment is nice, my roommate is pretty cool. And damn, I am only a few minutes bus ride from the beach (but I haven't been yet!). Maybe tonight, I'll go to the beach. My stomach is not cooperating with me today, so we'll see...
Today, I had to do my first presentation -- memorize 6 lines and teach them to the class, using pictures, body gestures, and repetition. It went just fine. Since I am used to giving complex presentations from university, I did not have many problems. I stumbled a little bit, but it was not bad.
We also learned more of the Boruca language today. I am feeling more comfortable with it. At least the bits that we have learned. So for this weekend, I have signed up for a trip that goes to the Borucan village. We will stay with a host family and learn about the culture and language. It is a bit expensive for me to do at $90 for the trip, but I think that the opportunities to do something like this are pretty rare. We need 3 more people to sign up, so we'll see if the trip even happens...
So far, so good. My apartment is nice, my roommate is pretty cool. And damn, I am only a few minutes bus ride from the beach (but I haven't been yet!). Maybe tonight, I'll go to the beach. My stomach is not cooperating with me today, so we'll see...
Sunday, March 9, 2008
School starts mañana!
I left the pummeling waves of Dominical this afternoon, and headed on my dusty way to Manuel Antonio. I must say that I admire people who travel central America with surfboards. I got my first taste at how much of a pain in the ass carting a board is. And I only had one short bus ride!
But alas, I made it to Manuel Antonio. I am living with Raymond, a Canadian hairdresser/massage therapist. He has a 2 bedroom apartment and rents out one of the rooms. The rent, a ridiculous $600 for the month. But that´s the best I could find in Manuel Antonio. Quepos is cheaper, but it is nice to be up in the hills and a bit away from the town. The place is quite nice. He said that they were still finishing the complex in November, so it is very new.
I am excited to start school tomorrow. But being that it´s Sunday and I arrived a bit late, I am a bit behind on my errands. I don´t have enough clothes to go to school. So I hope that tomorrow after school, I can go down to town and do some shopping. The shops are closed right now. So this evening, I am going to head to a soda for dinner, and then going to do some grocery shopping for the week and then head back to the apartment.
But alas, I made it to Manuel Antonio. I am living with Raymond, a Canadian hairdresser/massage therapist. He has a 2 bedroom apartment and rents out one of the rooms. The rent, a ridiculous $600 for the month. But that´s the best I could find in Manuel Antonio. Quepos is cheaper, but it is nice to be up in the hills and a bit away from the town. The place is quite nice. He said that they were still finishing the complex in November, so it is very new.
I am excited to start school tomorrow. But being that it´s Sunday and I arrived a bit late, I am a bit behind on my errands. I don´t have enough clothes to go to school. So I hope that tomorrow after school, I can go down to town and do some shopping. The shops are closed right now. So this evening, I am going to head to a soda for dinner, and then going to do some grocery shopping for the week and then head back to the apartment.
Friday, March 7, 2008
Familiar territory
After a long days travel, I finally made it to Dominical yesterday. I was lucky to stumble upon a German couple who wanted to take a cab. I said the max I'd pay was $5. The cab fare ended up being $34, though, but the German guy, Max, said that I could pay $5. Hell yeah, I'll jump on that deal!
I am staying at Hostel Pyramis, which, Sean and I saw when we were in Dominical before. It looked kind of sketchy. But in reality, I have a private room with private bath, and it is a neat place. The guy who runs it is an artist, so he paints a lot. And all of the rooms are painted up. It has a nice vibe to it. And for $20 for the private, it is quite a good price, especially here in Dominical. I think I will be spending my weekends here!
It is good to be back in Dominical. Familiar territory. Nice people. Good vibe...
I bought a surfboard today. Yup, I did it! I got a smoking deal from a guy who sells used boards here. I got a 6' shortboard, with fins, leash, and a bag, for $120. At the end of my trip, I will sell it. And he said he'd even buy it back for half. Given that rentals are $20/day, and that I will be doing a lot of surfing from now until the end of my trip, and probably will spend all of my weekends in Dominical...I will end up paying a ton for rental. So that works out well.
I went surfing today, and of course, it kicked my ass. The waves here are bigger than they were when I was here before. And I chopped my chin on the board trying to duck under the whitewater...still trying to figure that part out! But it was good.
Ahhhh...so good to be back in Dominical!!!
I am staying at Hostel Pyramis, which, Sean and I saw when we were in Dominical before. It looked kind of sketchy. But in reality, I have a private room with private bath, and it is a neat place. The guy who runs it is an artist, so he paints a lot. And all of the rooms are painted up. It has a nice vibe to it. And for $20 for the private, it is quite a good price, especially here in Dominical. I think I will be spending my weekends here!
It is good to be back in Dominical. Familiar territory. Nice people. Good vibe...
I bought a surfboard today. Yup, I did it! I got a smoking deal from a guy who sells used boards here. I got a 6' shortboard, with fins, leash, and a bag, for $120. At the end of my trip, I will sell it. And he said he'd even buy it back for half. Given that rentals are $20/day, and that I will be doing a lot of surfing from now until the end of my trip, and probably will spend all of my weekends in Dominical...I will end up paying a ton for rental. So that works out well.
I went surfing today, and of course, it kicked my ass. The waves here are bigger than they were when I was here before. And I chopped my chin on the board trying to duck under the whitewater...still trying to figure that part out! But it was good.
Ahhhh...so good to be back in Dominical!!!
Wednesday, March 5, 2008
Better days...are here!
My sentiments the other day just show you the ups and downs of travel. You have your ups, you have your downs. All the time.
But I do have to say that the past 2 days have been absolutely awesome. Two nights ago, I met an American girl who I got along with really well. We ended up going to the hot springs in Caldera yesterday, and making a good daytrip out of it. Was soooo nice. And not only that, it was just nice to travel with another chick. I haven´t met too many solo female travellers on this trip (just given the locations I have been in and such). The sentiments are pretty much the same with the men -- we all have to go through that. But it´s just so nice to vent. She left last night for Panama City, though.
Today, I hung out with 2 more females travelling solo, hiking for about 5 hours. And a good time, too. Again, just so comforting to be around other girls. In groups, we don´t the the harassment as bad. Quite refreshing.
I would write more, but damn, I am exhausted from the hike...
Tomorrow, the three of us are going to wake up early, head off for David, and catch the bus to San Jose to do the border crossing. We´ll all part ways at some point. I am going to get off in San Isidro, then head off for Dominical for some fun in the sun before starting school. Three days of surfing...sounds good!
But I do have to say that the past 2 days have been absolutely awesome. Two nights ago, I met an American girl who I got along with really well. We ended up going to the hot springs in Caldera yesterday, and making a good daytrip out of it. Was soooo nice. And not only that, it was just nice to travel with another chick. I haven´t met too many solo female travellers on this trip (just given the locations I have been in and such). The sentiments are pretty much the same with the men -- we all have to go through that. But it´s just so nice to vent. She left last night for Panama City, though.
Today, I hung out with 2 more females travelling solo, hiking for about 5 hours. And a good time, too. Again, just so comforting to be around other girls. In groups, we don´t the the harassment as bad. Quite refreshing.
I would write more, but damn, I am exhausted from the hike...
Tomorrow, the three of us are going to wake up early, head off for David, and catch the bus to San Jose to do the border crossing. We´ll all part ways at some point. I am going to get off in San Isidro, then head off for Dominical for some fun in the sun before starting school. Three days of surfing...sounds good!
Monday, March 3, 2008
La India Dormida (from El Valle)
La India Dormida is an area of the mountains surrounding El Valle. From the main road, in the direction away from the Interamericana, you can see her - she is lying down, her hair formed from a dense forest, her face, her breast.
Legend has it that Flor del Aire, a beautiful daughter of the indigenous leader Urracá, fell in love with a Spanish conquistador. However, Yaraví, the strongest and most aggressive fighter of her tribe, was in love with her. Since he could not get her love, he killed himself and threw himself from a mountain (??) in front of Flor del Aire. The princess (Flor del Aire) was upset by the death of Yaraví and decided to forget her love for the Spanish conquistador, and started to head for the mountains, crying and crying until she died. Nature, moved by the sadness of this love story, perpetuated Flor del Aire´s legend as a silhouette of the princess laying down.
Or that is the best I can do with my Spanish to English translation...!
La India Dormida is a popular hike in El Valle. I decided to find the way. On my own. Something I wouldn´t normally do, but El Valle was pretty mellow, the people there were really nice, and I didn´t have any problems hiking alone there.
I had to has a few times about the trail, as it is not well marked. There are many footpaths into the mountains. But it was fairly easy to find.
I hiked through town, up hill into the dense forest (her hair), ascending more and more, and finally hit a clearing where I could see El Valle and the crater that it was. I had the mountain all to myself. Tranquility.
I hiked up, ascending, onto her face. The wind was strong, maybe somewhere between 30 - 40 miles per hour. The tall grass was blowing over to one side, creating an undulating pattern. The view from the top was stunning. And the hike itself only took 1.25 hours to go up -- easier and quicker than I thought it would be.
I decided to go for brunch at a small clearing at the top. Tuna, crackers, and mandarine oranges -- I had been living off of it for a few days.
It was peaceful. Then I looked over, and on la india´s breast, there was a mysterious white horse. Strangely there. Not a soul in sight, just me and a white horse. My guess is that it got loose from someone´s ranch. It had no reins, to saddle, just bare, by itself in the undulating grass...
The perfect hike to end my trip in El Valle.
Legend has it that Flor del Aire, a beautiful daughter of the indigenous leader Urracá, fell in love with a Spanish conquistador. However, Yaraví, the strongest and most aggressive fighter of her tribe, was in love with her. Since he could not get her love, he killed himself and threw himself from a mountain (??) in front of Flor del Aire. The princess (Flor del Aire) was upset by the death of Yaraví and decided to forget her love for the Spanish conquistador, and started to head for the mountains, crying and crying until she died. Nature, moved by the sadness of this love story, perpetuated Flor del Aire´s legend as a silhouette of the princess laying down.
Or that is the best I can do with my Spanish to English translation...!
La India Dormida is a popular hike in El Valle. I decided to find the way. On my own. Something I wouldn´t normally do, but El Valle was pretty mellow, the people there were really nice, and I didn´t have any problems hiking alone there.
I had to has a few times about the trail, as it is not well marked. There are many footpaths into the mountains. But it was fairly easy to find.
I hiked through town, up hill into the dense forest (her hair), ascending more and more, and finally hit a clearing where I could see El Valle and the crater that it was. I had the mountain all to myself. Tranquility.
I hiked up, ascending, onto her face. The wind was strong, maybe somewhere between 30 - 40 miles per hour. The tall grass was blowing over to one side, creating an undulating pattern. The view from the top was stunning. And the hike itself only took 1.25 hours to go up -- easier and quicker than I thought it would be.
I decided to go for brunch at a small clearing at the top. Tuna, crackers, and mandarine oranges -- I had been living off of it for a few days.
It was peaceful. Then I looked over, and on la india´s breast, there was a mysterious white horse. Strangely there. Not a soul in sight, just me and a white horse. My guess is that it got loose from someone´s ranch. It had no reins, to saddle, just bare, by itself in the undulating grass...
The perfect hike to end my trip in El Valle.
What is worse...Panamanian men or Panamanian radio stations?
Hard to tell. The men suck here. And the radio stations are the most annoying noisy racket I have ever heard in my life. Not to mention the busses love to blare the radio stations. And, well, everywhere, they love to play their radio stations (like in this internet cafe). Reggaeton all day long at ear piercing volumes. Between the ´fabuuu-losa´, the honking horns, and the bits of cackling laughter interjected in the music...damn it, I should have bought a cheapie MP3 player before my trip!
Okay..I need to write something positive...
Okay..I need to write something positive...
More man troubles...
Okay, here´s a mental image of the horrid mess I look like today - I forgot to put on deodorant this morning, I am wearing the same tank to from yesterday that I sweated profusely in, I have once white button down shirt over it -- it has brown dirt stains, yellow armpit stains, and a bit of red stain from Powerade I must have spilt on it, my hair is up and is a frizzy mess, and I sweated for about 6 hours of transit today...not exactly the picture of beauty here. Seriously, I don´t think I could look any worse!
And the Panamanian men still persist. I had about a 6 hour transit from Chitré to Boquete today. My first lover wannabe was my taxi driver in Chitré. After telling him a million times that I am married, he would not quit asking me to have him as my second husband. ´Let´s go on a trip´ Constant, persistent, the entire taxi ride to the bus terminal. By the way, this guy is old enough to be my dad...
Wannabe lover number 2 of the day...A bigger, older guy sat next to me on the bus from Chitré to Santiago. I already had a bad feeling. After the cab driver. I just didn´t want a man sitting next to me. But couldn´t do much about it. I just stared out the window the entire time. Then one time, he asked for the time, so I showed him my watch. He then talked to me to make conversation, not a big deal, right. Then he persisted in asking for my cell number. I told him I don´t have one. He insisted on giving me his cell number. And I said, why? So we can talk. I told him no thanks, and continued to look out the window. Luckily, we were close to Santiago, then got to Santiago, and that wannabe lover was gone. El gordo was also viejo as well. He was some 40 something years old.
And number 3. So I finally get to Boquete, even messier than I started. I even smell a bit since I forgot my deodorant. I decide to go for a refreshing walk to Boquete Bajo. A guy who works on one of the busses that goes from Boquete to Boquete Bajo first saw me in Boquete and said hola. Whatever. I walk on. I enjoy Boquete Bajo, the flower garden that a homeowner shares with the public. It was lovely. On my return walk down to Boquete, the bus passes by and Mr lover number 3 waves at me. And I get back to Boquete, and guess who I have to pass by again. Yup, lucky number 3. I walk on, ignore, and he yells out a few things from his bus.
Panamanian men are so damn persistent, it is driving me up the wall. Seriously, Panamanian women are gorgeous, they take care of themselves. Hit on one of them. I look frumpy as hell and can´t avoid it. Sheesh.
And yesterday, some kid said that he was in love with me. Ick. WTF.
The hisses and whistles I can ignore, but the yelling and talking and persistance is wearing me thin. I didn´t have the troubles to this extent in South America, so I assumed that it would be about the same. But it is far much worse here. I am getting sick and tired of it.
I sadly have to say that I don´t think I can travel for extended periods of time in these regions alone. This coming from a season travel vet, an intrepid, independent person...sad to say.
Part of me is ready to get my TEFL classes over with and go home. But I know I am in the home stretch now. A few days in Boquete, then a few days in Dominical. Dominical is a cool place...a lot of travellers there, so I don´t think I will have that many man problems there. Then a month in Manuel Antonio, where I´ll live with a Canadian guy (he´s harmless, he´s gay - will work out really well then) and go to school. Weekends back in Dominical for surfing. Then back home.
Despite the issues, I will still make the most of it...
And the Panamanian men still persist. I had about a 6 hour transit from Chitré to Boquete today. My first lover wannabe was my taxi driver in Chitré. After telling him a million times that I am married, he would not quit asking me to have him as my second husband. ´Let´s go on a trip´ Constant, persistent, the entire taxi ride to the bus terminal. By the way, this guy is old enough to be my dad...
Wannabe lover number 2 of the day...A bigger, older guy sat next to me on the bus from Chitré to Santiago. I already had a bad feeling. After the cab driver. I just didn´t want a man sitting next to me. But couldn´t do much about it. I just stared out the window the entire time. Then one time, he asked for the time, so I showed him my watch. He then talked to me to make conversation, not a big deal, right. Then he persisted in asking for my cell number. I told him I don´t have one. He insisted on giving me his cell number. And I said, why? So we can talk. I told him no thanks, and continued to look out the window. Luckily, we were close to Santiago, then got to Santiago, and that wannabe lover was gone. El gordo was also viejo as well. He was some 40 something years old.
And number 3. So I finally get to Boquete, even messier than I started. I even smell a bit since I forgot my deodorant. I decide to go for a refreshing walk to Boquete Bajo. A guy who works on one of the busses that goes from Boquete to Boquete Bajo first saw me in Boquete and said hola. Whatever. I walk on. I enjoy Boquete Bajo, the flower garden that a homeowner shares with the public. It was lovely. On my return walk down to Boquete, the bus passes by and Mr lover number 3 waves at me. And I get back to Boquete, and guess who I have to pass by again. Yup, lucky number 3. I walk on, ignore, and he yells out a few things from his bus.
Panamanian men are so damn persistent, it is driving me up the wall. Seriously, Panamanian women are gorgeous, they take care of themselves. Hit on one of them. I look frumpy as hell and can´t avoid it. Sheesh.
And yesterday, some kid said that he was in love with me. Ick. WTF.
The hisses and whistles I can ignore, but the yelling and talking and persistance is wearing me thin. I didn´t have the troubles to this extent in South America, so I assumed that it would be about the same. But it is far much worse here. I am getting sick and tired of it.
I sadly have to say that I don´t think I can travel for extended periods of time in these regions alone. This coming from a season travel vet, an intrepid, independent person...sad to say.
Part of me is ready to get my TEFL classes over with and go home. But I know I am in the home stretch now. A few days in Boquete, then a few days in Dominical. Dominical is a cool place...a lot of travellers there, so I don´t think I will have that many man problems there. Then a month in Manuel Antonio, where I´ll live with a Canadian guy (he´s harmless, he´s gay - will work out really well then) and go to school. Weekends back in Dominical for surfing. Then back home.
Despite the issues, I will still make the most of it...
Saturday, March 1, 2008
In Chitré now...
Just a brief post...I left El Valle today and headed on to Chitré. It is the capital of the Herrera province, in the Azuero Peninsula. Now this is Panama. Not many tourists here at all. Maybe enough to count on one hand. I love cities like this. Went shopping. Bought a new backpack, since the $5 I bought in David keeps ripping more and more. Hopefully this new one will work better...
Ah, Chitré. Hot, hot, hot. But cheap! I ate lunch for $1.40, so I am confident that I will be able to eat meals here =)
Ah, Chitré. Hot, hot, hot. But cheap! I ate lunch for $1.40, so I am confident that I will be able to eat meals here =)
Thursday, February 28, 2008
Chorro de Macho
I had an early start today -- the usual - go to the supermarket across the street, buy a thing of yogurt, fruit loops, a can of tuna, and bread...head back to Hotel Don Pepe, sunscreen, eat the yogurt and fruit loops, then pack my bag for my morning hike.
I decided to go to Chorro de Macho (Man´s waterfalls?) today. My legs are sore from yesterday´s hike up Cerro la Cruz, so I briefly contemplated catching a cab. Luckily, I decided not to. The walk was just an ever so slight incline uphill, for a few miles. Nothing to difficult.
It seems like the Canopy tour here owns the land where Chorro de Macho is, so you have to pya $3.50 to get in to the trails for the waterfalls. Other people were doing the canopy tour - 6 ziplines for $52. I didn´t do that since it was way out of my budget (not to mention that lonely planet has the tour misstated for $40). But I´m glad I didn´t do the ziplines here, because they looked pretty drab and boring compared to the Boquete Tree Trek.
I went on to the Chorro de Macho and hung out there for a while, watching the frigid mountain waters cascade down the rocks. It was nice, peaceful, tranquil. A guy said Buenas to me, and it scared me because I didn´t expect that there would be someone right behind my back. He was a tour leader and had 6 tourists. They were checking out the falls. I watched the falls, and all of a sudden, noticed a flash to my side. When I looked, an insensitive curly haired blond lady of the tour had taken my picture. I was like..um..okay. haha. She must think I´m a local. So a few minutes later, she asked to take my picture (maybe she should have asked the first time!), so I said okay. I just played along with the game. I thought it was quite hilarious, actually. And she thanked me when she left, acting like I didn´t know English. And all she has is a picture of some American traveller by the falls. Funny. But now I know how the locals feel if someone tries to take your picture. It is an odd feeling, like I am part of the show or part of a zoo. In a way, it puts things in perspective.
I walked back to the hotel to take a rest and to have lunch. It is a windy day today, with a little bit of rain. I waited a while until the rain subsided to head back out for my second hike-walk of the day.
Using my crappy Lonely Planet Panama guidebook, I decided to find these ´square trunked trees´ that they say are 10 minutes behind Hotel Campestre. I walked, and never found these trees. Oh well, at least it was a good way to burn off my lunch!
I´m going to veg out for the rest of the day. Tomorrow, I think I am going to try to climb La India Dormida - one of the well known peaks around here. I forget the legend to the mountain at the moment (I´ll post the legend with the pictures, whenever I get around to it), but something about the hope of finding love. It´s a tougher hike around the area, and Lonely Planet says to consult for guides, but I´ve been fine so far. I´ll figure it out...
I decided to go to Chorro de Macho (Man´s waterfalls?) today. My legs are sore from yesterday´s hike up Cerro la Cruz, so I briefly contemplated catching a cab. Luckily, I decided not to. The walk was just an ever so slight incline uphill, for a few miles. Nothing to difficult.
It seems like the Canopy tour here owns the land where Chorro de Macho is, so you have to pya $3.50 to get in to the trails for the waterfalls. Other people were doing the canopy tour - 6 ziplines for $52. I didn´t do that since it was way out of my budget (not to mention that lonely planet has the tour misstated for $40). But I´m glad I didn´t do the ziplines here, because they looked pretty drab and boring compared to the Boquete Tree Trek.
I went on to the Chorro de Macho and hung out there for a while, watching the frigid mountain waters cascade down the rocks. It was nice, peaceful, tranquil. A guy said Buenas to me, and it scared me because I didn´t expect that there would be someone right behind my back. He was a tour leader and had 6 tourists. They were checking out the falls. I watched the falls, and all of a sudden, noticed a flash to my side. When I looked, an insensitive curly haired blond lady of the tour had taken my picture. I was like..um..okay. haha. She must think I´m a local. So a few minutes later, she asked to take my picture (maybe she should have asked the first time!), so I said okay. I just played along with the game. I thought it was quite hilarious, actually. And she thanked me when she left, acting like I didn´t know English. And all she has is a picture of some American traveller by the falls. Funny. But now I know how the locals feel if someone tries to take your picture. It is an odd feeling, like I am part of the show or part of a zoo. In a way, it puts things in perspective.
I walked back to the hotel to take a rest and to have lunch. It is a windy day today, with a little bit of rain. I waited a while until the rain subsided to head back out for my second hike-walk of the day.
Using my crappy Lonely Planet Panama guidebook, I decided to find these ´square trunked trees´ that they say are 10 minutes behind Hotel Campestre. I walked, and never found these trees. Oh well, at least it was a good way to burn off my lunch!
I´m going to veg out for the rest of the day. Tomorrow, I think I am going to try to climb La India Dormida - one of the well known peaks around here. I forget the legend to the mountain at the moment (I´ll post the legend with the pictures, whenever I get around to it), but something about the hope of finding love. It´s a tougher hike around the area, and Lonely Planet says to consult for guides, but I´ve been fine so far. I´ll figure it out...
Wednesday, February 27, 2008
Ahh...much better days now...
I moved places and now amd staying at Hotel Don Pepe in El Valle. It is much, much, much nicer. I actually feel clean here. Well not right now, as I hiked some 6+ miles in the sun today...but the fact that I can get clean here is nice.
Yesterday and today were great. Yesterday, I walked over to the thermal pool. For a dollar, I got to use a mud treatment for my face, and soak in a nice warm, nutrient rich thermal pool. What a bargain! The grounds are pretty -- you are surrounded by lush vegetation. A great place to relax. Afterwards, I walked around the town for a long time, and ended up walking about 6.5 miles.
Today, I went hiking for about 3 hours straight with a 20 minute break for brunch. I hiked over to Chorro Mozas - Waterfalls of Women(?). Well, I don´t know if I actually found the real waterfalls or not -- hiking alone still creeps me out a bit, so I went so far as finding a set of waterfalls that was nice, then hiked back. No one on the pathway, a bit lush out there, so if something happened, no one would ever know.
I hiked back to the road and then at a junction, decided to hike up to Cerro de la Cruz (Hill of the Cross). It was a pretty good hike up a 4x4 road, all the way winding uphill. I finally got there and stood before a gorgeous view of El Valle. I brunched at the top, then headed down back to town. And on my way back, I finally saw a resplendant Quetzal. I saw it out of the corner of my eye, then watched in the trees. A very beautiful bird, it is...
El Valle is a nice place, up in the mountains. Not too far from Panama City. It is where an old volcano existed, and millions of years ago, the top blew off creating a crater. The crater filled with water creating a lake, but has thus drained since then, creating the waterfalls around here. Now, the previous volcano edge is lush and green, and the small town of El Valle sits at the bottom of the crater.
It is not so much a backpacker´s place given the cost of things. But I thought I would check it out anyways. Yep, breaking the budget, but oh well. It´s nice here, I could stay for much longer and just hike around all day. Two more nights here and then I will move on...
Yesterday and today were great. Yesterday, I walked over to the thermal pool. For a dollar, I got to use a mud treatment for my face, and soak in a nice warm, nutrient rich thermal pool. What a bargain! The grounds are pretty -- you are surrounded by lush vegetation. A great place to relax. Afterwards, I walked around the town for a long time, and ended up walking about 6.5 miles.
Today, I went hiking for about 3 hours straight with a 20 minute break for brunch. I hiked over to Chorro Mozas - Waterfalls of Women(?). Well, I don´t know if I actually found the real waterfalls or not -- hiking alone still creeps me out a bit, so I went so far as finding a set of waterfalls that was nice, then hiked back. No one on the pathway, a bit lush out there, so if something happened, no one would ever know.
I hiked back to the road and then at a junction, decided to hike up to Cerro de la Cruz (Hill of the Cross). It was a pretty good hike up a 4x4 road, all the way winding uphill. I finally got there and stood before a gorgeous view of El Valle. I brunched at the top, then headed down back to town. And on my way back, I finally saw a resplendant Quetzal. I saw it out of the corner of my eye, then watched in the trees. A very beautiful bird, it is...
El Valle is a nice place, up in the mountains. Not too far from Panama City. It is where an old volcano existed, and millions of years ago, the top blew off creating a crater. The crater filled with water creating a lake, but has thus drained since then, creating the waterfalls around here. Now, the previous volcano edge is lush and green, and the small town of El Valle sits at the bottom of the crater.
It is not so much a backpacker´s place given the cost of things. But I thought I would check it out anyways. Yep, breaking the budget, but oh well. It´s nice here, I could stay for much longer and just hike around all day. Two more nights here and then I will move on...
Monday, February 25, 2008
The tribulations of traveling solo...
So I had to cut my trip to Santa Catalina short because of the harassment from the men. Yup, I must say it is was the worst in all of my travels anywhere in the world. They are nonstop with the harassment. And even the old decrepit men will harass you.
I can´t remember where I left off about Santa Catalina. It is a cool place, don´t get me wrong. But don´t stay in the town. If you go there (and are a female), reserve accomodations on the beach, and don´t leave it. It´s pretty safe at the beach (Playa Estero), since it´s mostly tourists there. Relaxed, nice. But if you go to town, that´ll make you want to leave...
I walked from town to the Playa Estero every day. And sometimes to the beach down my road (but it´s not as nice). And every day, I got hassled by the men. I´m normally a friendly person when I travel, but I just quit being friendly. But you can´t avoid it. The men will be in your face and won´t leave you alone. Perhaps it´s because I can pass as Panamanian. However, my last day, when I was looking for a last chance to go to Isla Coiba, I met a few blonde haired 'gringas' who had the same problems. But they were staying at the beach, so they were better off. They had just that venture to town to borrow snorkelling gear. So I came to the conclusion that it was any man to harass any woman in Santa Catalina.
My last night there, I was eating my roasted chicken and fried plantains at a streetside vendor. Talking to these 2 Panamanian guys I ran into before (they were actually nice). Then this other dude, Felix, comes by and talks. But won´t really leave me alone. Then he leaves. After dinner, I went down the road to Coiba Dive Center to see if they had any trips for the next day (today). Felix, who was in a hammock at a fruit stand, threw a rock at me and asked me where I was going. That was it. The whistles, I can handle. But when someone throws stuff at you...it was my signal that it would be my last night in Santa Catalina. There were no trips to Coiba going anyways. As I walked past Felix again (it was the only route through town), he harassed me again. He said I was good for him (um..yuck). And what really worried me was that he and his friend had slingshots in their hands. I was worried that as I walked away, I would get pelted. But I told him that he better not hit me with anything. Luckily, he didn´t.
I left Santa Catalina this morning, headed for the mountain town of El Valle, hoping for a bit more solitude here. After the Santa Catalina experience, I became super annoyed at the flirting. Here again, whistling. Nothing more, not like Santa Catalina. I just have to get used to the whistling.
I managed to pick a real shithole to stay in tonight. For $15 (my budget is supposedly $30-day for everything), it is disgusting. Dirty everything. I don´t even want to describe the huge stain on the bedsheet. I´m breaking out my sleepsheet tonight, that´s for sure. First time on my trip. I´m moving in the morning to a place for $30-night. Screw the budget...
I can´t remember where I left off about Santa Catalina. It is a cool place, don´t get me wrong. But don´t stay in the town. If you go there (and are a female), reserve accomodations on the beach, and don´t leave it. It´s pretty safe at the beach (Playa Estero), since it´s mostly tourists there. Relaxed, nice. But if you go to town, that´ll make you want to leave...
I walked from town to the Playa Estero every day. And sometimes to the beach down my road (but it´s not as nice). And every day, I got hassled by the men. I´m normally a friendly person when I travel, but I just quit being friendly. But you can´t avoid it. The men will be in your face and won´t leave you alone. Perhaps it´s because I can pass as Panamanian. However, my last day, when I was looking for a last chance to go to Isla Coiba, I met a few blonde haired 'gringas' who had the same problems. But they were staying at the beach, so they were better off. They had just that venture to town to borrow snorkelling gear. So I came to the conclusion that it was any man to harass any woman in Santa Catalina.
My last night there, I was eating my roasted chicken and fried plantains at a streetside vendor. Talking to these 2 Panamanian guys I ran into before (they were actually nice). Then this other dude, Felix, comes by and talks. But won´t really leave me alone. Then he leaves. After dinner, I went down the road to Coiba Dive Center to see if they had any trips for the next day (today). Felix, who was in a hammock at a fruit stand, threw a rock at me and asked me where I was going. That was it. The whistles, I can handle. But when someone throws stuff at you...it was my signal that it would be my last night in Santa Catalina. There were no trips to Coiba going anyways. As I walked past Felix again (it was the only route through town), he harassed me again. He said I was good for him (um..yuck). And what really worried me was that he and his friend had slingshots in their hands. I was worried that as I walked away, I would get pelted. But I told him that he better not hit me with anything. Luckily, he didn´t.
I left Santa Catalina this morning, headed for the mountain town of El Valle, hoping for a bit more solitude here. After the Santa Catalina experience, I became super annoyed at the flirting. Here again, whistling. Nothing more, not like Santa Catalina. I just have to get used to the whistling.
I managed to pick a real shithole to stay in tonight. For $15 (my budget is supposedly $30-day for everything), it is disgusting. Dirty everything. I don´t even want to describe the huge stain on the bedsheet. I´m breaking out my sleepsheet tonight, that´s for sure. First time on my trip. I´m moving in the morning to a place for $30-night. Screw the budget...
Saturday, February 23, 2008
Santa Catalina, at last!
Yesterday, Sean and I parted ways. He was on his way up to San Jose, Costa Rica by bus to fly out today. I decided to hit the beach and do some more surfing. After a harrowing 13ish hour transportation mess yesterday, I finally made it to Santa Catalina.
It was interesting nevertheless. Boquete to David. David to Santiago. Santiago to Sona. Wait for 3.5 hours. Sona to Santa Catalina, but part of the way our bus broke down, and also came to a halt as the helper guy and a farmer guy ran out of the bus to chase a giant iguana. They leaped over a barbed wire fence to catch it, and they did. He brought it back on the bus. Then we stopped by one house, I´m assuming it´s the kids house. And he dropped the giant iguana off to an older guy in a hammock. I´m guessing that he caught the family´s dinner for the night.
I wanted to seek out a beachfront place, but little did I know that it was up a hill and quite a hike with all my gear to get there. I finally got there, but nothing was available. I was losing daylight hours, so I talked to a guy from Florida, whose kids were surfing into the sunset. I was going to beg/bribe him to take me back to town because ther was no way in hell that I was going to do the hike again. Luckily, the owner of Mar y Sol hotel came by to let his puppy play in the water. He took me back to town, and I stayed at his hotel for the night. Expensive, but not many options. Today, I moved to a very pink hotel for $25-night. Not bad, did laundry, and hiked back to the beach.
Tomorrow, I´ll surf all day and that´s about it. One of these days I´m here, I´ll try to make it out to Isla Coiba. We´ll see...
Internet is slow and expensive here, so you won´t here from me for a few more days...
It was interesting nevertheless. Boquete to David. David to Santiago. Santiago to Sona. Wait for 3.5 hours. Sona to Santa Catalina, but part of the way our bus broke down, and also came to a halt as the helper guy and a farmer guy ran out of the bus to chase a giant iguana. They leaped over a barbed wire fence to catch it, and they did. He brought it back on the bus. Then we stopped by one house, I´m assuming it´s the kids house. And he dropped the giant iguana off to an older guy in a hammock. I´m guessing that he caught the family´s dinner for the night.
I wanted to seek out a beachfront place, but little did I know that it was up a hill and quite a hike with all my gear to get there. I finally got there, but nothing was available. I was losing daylight hours, so I talked to a guy from Florida, whose kids were surfing into the sunset. I was going to beg/bribe him to take me back to town because ther was no way in hell that I was going to do the hike again. Luckily, the owner of Mar y Sol hotel came by to let his puppy play in the water. He took me back to town, and I stayed at his hotel for the night. Expensive, but not many options. Today, I moved to a very pink hotel for $25-night. Not bad, did laundry, and hiked back to the beach.
Tomorrow, I´ll surf all day and that´s about it. One of these days I´m here, I´ll try to make it out to Isla Coiba. We´ll see...
Internet is slow and expensive here, so you won´t here from me for a few more days...
Wednesday, February 20, 2008
Panama Canal pics - Jan 30, 2008
I'm slowly but surely uploading some pictures on my flickr account. The internet speed here is decent, but not excellent, so uploading is pretty slow.
I just wanted to share some pictures from my visit to the Panama Canal on Jan 30th. It was a pretty adventurous way of getting there, but I did make it on the public buses and by foot. Needless to say, I was the only tourist going to the canal this way. Everyone else whizzed by me on their mega tour buses as I walked my way to the canal. But I like it that way. I met a really nice security guard who showed me the way to go.
Click on the pictures to see the bigger picture.
Railroad tracks on the way to the Panama Canal
Panama Canal
Miraflores Locks
The obligatory "I've been to the Panama Canal" shot -- apparently on a windy day!
I just wanted to share some pictures from my visit to the Panama Canal on Jan 30th. It was a pretty adventurous way of getting there, but I did make it on the public buses and by foot. Needless to say, I was the only tourist going to the canal this way. Everyone else whizzed by me on their mega tour buses as I walked my way to the canal. But I like it that way. I met a really nice security guard who showed me the way to go.
Click on the pictures to see the bigger picture.
Tuesday, February 19, 2008
Updates
Once again, I have been out of touch. Internet has either been unavailable or really expensive...
On Feb 9th, I went down to Quepos, found a place to stay, then went to the airport to meet Sean. We met up with Teresa and her boyfriend, Chris. Took it easy for the vening, did happy hour and hung out.
The next day, Sean and I checked into our pimpin' pad at the Costa Verde II with more than 180 degree view of the coast and Manuel Antonio National Park. Ahhh...such a nice place! Then we met up with Teresa and Chris at Manuel Antonio National Park. We hiked a bit, hung out, watched the monkeys, watched one monkey steal a bag of chips from someone, watched an iguana feast on a giant grasshopper that Sean flipped over, and beached it.
On the 11th, we met up with Daisy as well. We left for Sara's wedding around 4:30pm. It was held on the beach, with the sun in the background. The officiant was a character -- she came down from San Jose to do the wedding. She was a bigger lady, whose boobs looked like lethal missiles. And she complained about her hair all the time. Oh yeah, and she wouldn't stop talking. A character, nevertheless. Sara's wedding was cute -- vows on the beach. Both Sara and Daryl started crying - so sweet. The ocean crashing on the rocks behind them as the sun started to set. Family and friends gathered around. A nice way to start their life together.
The reception was held at Mono Azul, where Sara's dad dressed in an Elvis outfit and then did karaoke -- good entertainment. An after-party was held at a really nice villa that Sara's father and brothers rented out. We hung out, poolside, chitchatted, then left around 1am or so.
We all parted ways since everyone was on to something else the next day -- me and Sean off to Dominical, Daisy off to Nicaragua, and Teresa and Chris back to the states.
Dominical was nice -- surf lessons, surfing, and damn it, I got stung by a stingray 3 times on my foot. It hurt like a bitch for a few hours, but then the pain was gone, so all was good. The surfing was fun, good times, but both Sean and I got really sunburnt.
So then we headed for the mountains. I took Sean back to Lost and Found Ecolodge in Panama to escape the sun and the heat. A nice place to veg, read a book, do crosswords. We did some hiking as well as a horseback ride.
We've met some cool people along the way, and now are in Boquete, Panama, staying with a guy named Greg who is going to open a hostel soon. We're actually the first customers. It's more like we're just staying at his house. But that's the feel he wants. He bought the place about 1 month ago, and is in the process of fixing it up -- possibly to open up in a week or so...cute place, lots of potential. I'll pass the word on for him.
On Feb 9th, I went down to Quepos, found a place to stay, then went to the airport to meet Sean. We met up with Teresa and her boyfriend, Chris. Took it easy for the vening, did happy hour and hung out.
The next day, Sean and I checked into our pimpin' pad at the Costa Verde II with more than 180 degree view of the coast and Manuel Antonio National Park. Ahhh...such a nice place! Then we met up with Teresa and Chris at Manuel Antonio National Park. We hiked a bit, hung out, watched the monkeys, watched one monkey steal a bag of chips from someone, watched an iguana feast on a giant grasshopper that Sean flipped over, and beached it.
On the 11th, we met up with Daisy as well. We left for Sara's wedding around 4:30pm. It was held on the beach, with the sun in the background. The officiant was a character -- she came down from San Jose to do the wedding. She was a bigger lady, whose boobs looked like lethal missiles. And she complained about her hair all the time. Oh yeah, and she wouldn't stop talking. A character, nevertheless. Sara's wedding was cute -- vows on the beach. Both Sara and Daryl started crying - so sweet. The ocean crashing on the rocks behind them as the sun started to set. Family and friends gathered around. A nice way to start their life together.
The reception was held at Mono Azul, where Sara's dad dressed in an Elvis outfit and then did karaoke -- good entertainment. An after-party was held at a really nice villa that Sara's father and brothers rented out. We hung out, poolside, chitchatted, then left around 1am or so.
We all parted ways since everyone was on to something else the next day -- me and Sean off to Dominical, Daisy off to Nicaragua, and Teresa and Chris back to the states.
Dominical was nice -- surf lessons, surfing, and damn it, I got stung by a stingray 3 times on my foot. It hurt like a bitch for a few hours, but then the pain was gone, so all was good. The surfing was fun, good times, but both Sean and I got really sunburnt.
So then we headed for the mountains. I took Sean back to Lost and Found Ecolodge in Panama to escape the sun and the heat. A nice place to veg, read a book, do crosswords. We did some hiking as well as a horseback ride.
We've met some cool people along the way, and now are in Boquete, Panama, staying with a guy named Greg who is going to open a hostel soon. We're actually the first customers. It's more like we're just staying at his house. But that's the feel he wants. He bought the place about 1 month ago, and is in the process of fixing it up -- possibly to open up in a week or so...cute place, lots of potential. I'll pass the word on for him.
Friday, February 8, 2008
Yes, I´m still alive :p
I haven´t had a chance to update in a while. Have been travelling quite a bit, pretty constantly, and in places where internet doesn´t exist...
So I went to Bocas, but was kind of tired of being in the sun and in the heat, so I only spent one night there. Explored Isla Bastimentos, and adventure it was...more stories later.
From there, I hooked up with 9 other travellers from Ireland, Germany, Switzerland, and Israel. We all went up to a new Ecolodge called Lost and Found near Boquete. It is a gorgeous location. And stories there, too...to come later. We hung out there for 3 nights since it was buy 2 nights get one free.
After Lost and Found, we all headed to David then parted ways. Me, Anabelle, Richard, and Glen stayed in David overnight. Anabelle made her way over to Panama City today. Richard, Glen, Taylor (a girl we met in the hostel from the Dallas area) and I headed on towards San Jose. Richard, Glen, and I got off at San Isidro to hop catch a connecting bus to Dominical. Taylor went on to San Jose, and tomorrow she will go back to the organic chocolate farm she is working on.
Long story short, the Dominical bus actually says Quepos on in, no one at the bus stop knew that, and so we got stuck in San Isidro. We found a hotel for 5000 colones each ($10) so we´ll bed here for the night, then will head on the 7am bus headed for Quepos. I´ll go to Quepos and the boys will go to Dominical.
Sean is flying into Quepos tomorrow..yay! Where I´ll meet him at the airport. Lodging..nothing booked, so will have to figure that one out tomorrow. Yay, now Sean can fend off all the guys from me. I´ve only been here for a week and have had one marriage offer and a few boyfriend offers, too. haha.
Allright, I think we´re going to get showers (it is damn hot here!!!) and then go for a beer or something.
Hasta luego for now.
So I went to Bocas, but was kind of tired of being in the sun and in the heat, so I only spent one night there. Explored Isla Bastimentos, and adventure it was...more stories later.
From there, I hooked up with 9 other travellers from Ireland, Germany, Switzerland, and Israel. We all went up to a new Ecolodge called Lost and Found near Boquete. It is a gorgeous location. And stories there, too...to come later. We hung out there for 3 nights since it was buy 2 nights get one free.
After Lost and Found, we all headed to David then parted ways. Me, Anabelle, Richard, and Glen stayed in David overnight. Anabelle made her way over to Panama City today. Richard, Glen, Taylor (a girl we met in the hostel from the Dallas area) and I headed on towards San Jose. Richard, Glen, and I got off at San Isidro to hop catch a connecting bus to Dominical. Taylor went on to San Jose, and tomorrow she will go back to the organic chocolate farm she is working on.
Long story short, the Dominical bus actually says Quepos on in, no one at the bus stop knew that, and so we got stuck in San Isidro. We found a hotel for 5000 colones each ($10) so we´ll bed here for the night, then will head on the 7am bus headed for Quepos. I´ll go to Quepos and the boys will go to Dominical.
Sean is flying into Quepos tomorrow..yay! Where I´ll meet him at the airport. Lodging..nothing booked, so will have to figure that one out tomorrow. Yay, now Sean can fend off all the guys from me. I´ve only been here for a week and have had one marriage offer and a few boyfriend offers, too. haha.
Allright, I think we´re going to get showers (it is damn hot here!!!) and then go for a beer or something.
Hasta luego for now.
Saturday, February 2, 2008
Paradise Found
Part of me wants to keep this place a total secret. Part of me wants to tell people...
I came back from San Blas today. It was, like the guy in my hostel told me, one of those places that you hear about and see in pictures, but do not believe it exists...until you find it.
I will keep this short and sweet for now, maybe do a full write up much later.
The tour ended up being just what I wanted. I went by jeep to the San Blas area. It was one crazy bumpy ride over. We got to the river, then I went by boat down the river and into the sea.
The island I stayed on held a Kuna community of about 400-600 people. Back to nature. All the house materials made of earth products -- walls of wood that resembled bamboo, roofs made of palm tree leaves. The toilets...now this will sound strange...right over the water. Yeah, that is right, we pooed and peed in the ocean. But funny thing was that the most colorful fish we saw were right under the toilet, the water was clear, and it did not stink. But I would not swim there. There are no real beaches on the island anyways.
Instead, you take a boat out to an island further out, a deserted or almost deserted island, and swim, snorkel, relax. Paradise found.
Besides the island I stayed on, I visited 2 other islands. We were the only people on the island other than 1 small family. The first island was truely paradise. I believe it was the only island with flushing toilets and running water. Great for swimming. The second was surrounded by coral, so not so good for swimming.
Each day, we would get breakfast, then our boat driver would take us to our island of the day. They would leave us there in peace, then would come and bring lunch, leave again, then pick us up later.
The simple life...not much to do. Peace, tranquility. Some people get bored because they want something to do. Not me. We ended up making fun for ourselves. Underwater handstand and front or backflip from water at your knees contests, coconut throwing contests, playing hot potato with a local medicinal fruit with a local boy, island arts and crafts, etc etc etc.
And the people. Wow. The most friendly, likeable people on earth. Keeping their culture. Sharing it. And damn, they are smart business people -- making a killing off of it.
Some people think that $25 is too expensive to pay for an island stay (sleeping in a hammock -- okay, fun to rest, but not so comfy to sleep in) - but it includes all meals, transport to other islands, snorkel gear, and heck, PARADISE. Damn, I thought I was cheap. Seriously, I think it is a hell of a bargain for finding paradise.
I have found a new #1 favorite spot in the world. It is the San Blas Archipelago. Life is simple. Everyone works. It is a great community feel. The people always have fun every day. I believe that they are rich (from tourism), but you would not be able to tell because their life is simple. It is perfect in paradise.
I am part speechless of the experience because it was so incredible and unique. I wish I could have stayed for longer (but my big backpack was in Panama City and my money was running out and I have a flight out). But I am okay with it. I got a taste of paradise, and I know I will be back. Back to the Kuna Yala.
Aaaahhhh. That is how I feel. That is all I will say about paradise for now...
Tonight, I am in blah Panama City. But tomorrow I will be in Bocas del Toro. No place to stay. Negative response from the place I emailed. And Panamanian public phones suck - I have not been able to make a call out yet (and have tried and tried and tried). People are telling me that everything is booked. I may have to sleep on the beach for a night. I fly out in the morning. I guess I will see what happens. It is all part of the adventure...
I came back from San Blas today. It was, like the guy in my hostel told me, one of those places that you hear about and see in pictures, but do not believe it exists...until you find it.
I will keep this short and sweet for now, maybe do a full write up much later.
The tour ended up being just what I wanted. I went by jeep to the San Blas area. It was one crazy bumpy ride over. We got to the river, then I went by boat down the river and into the sea.
The island I stayed on held a Kuna community of about 400-600 people. Back to nature. All the house materials made of earth products -- walls of wood that resembled bamboo, roofs made of palm tree leaves. The toilets...now this will sound strange...right over the water. Yeah, that is right, we pooed and peed in the ocean. But funny thing was that the most colorful fish we saw were right under the toilet, the water was clear, and it did not stink. But I would not swim there. There are no real beaches on the island anyways.
Instead, you take a boat out to an island further out, a deserted or almost deserted island, and swim, snorkel, relax. Paradise found.
Besides the island I stayed on, I visited 2 other islands. We were the only people on the island other than 1 small family. The first island was truely paradise. I believe it was the only island with flushing toilets and running water. Great for swimming. The second was surrounded by coral, so not so good for swimming.
Each day, we would get breakfast, then our boat driver would take us to our island of the day. They would leave us there in peace, then would come and bring lunch, leave again, then pick us up later.
The simple life...not much to do. Peace, tranquility. Some people get bored because they want something to do. Not me. We ended up making fun for ourselves. Underwater handstand and front or backflip from water at your knees contests, coconut throwing contests, playing hot potato with a local medicinal fruit with a local boy, island arts and crafts, etc etc etc.
And the people. Wow. The most friendly, likeable people on earth. Keeping their culture. Sharing it. And damn, they are smart business people -- making a killing off of it.
Some people think that $25 is too expensive to pay for an island stay (sleeping in a hammock -- okay, fun to rest, but not so comfy to sleep in) - but it includes all meals, transport to other islands, snorkel gear, and heck, PARADISE. Damn, I thought I was cheap. Seriously, I think it is a hell of a bargain for finding paradise.
I have found a new #1 favorite spot in the world. It is the San Blas Archipelago. Life is simple. Everyone works. It is a great community feel. The people always have fun every day. I believe that they are rich (from tourism), but you would not be able to tell because their life is simple. It is perfect in paradise.
I am part speechless of the experience because it was so incredible and unique. I wish I could have stayed for longer (but my big backpack was in Panama City and my money was running out and I have a flight out). But I am okay with it. I got a taste of paradise, and I know I will be back. Back to the Kuna Yala.
Aaaahhhh. That is how I feel. That is all I will say about paradise for now...
Tonight, I am in blah Panama City. But tomorrow I will be in Bocas del Toro. No place to stay. Negative response from the place I emailed. And Panamanian public phones suck - I have not been able to make a call out yet (and have tried and tried and tried). People are telling me that everything is booked. I may have to sleep on the beach for a night. I fly out in the morning. I guess I will see what happens. It is all part of the adventure...
Wednesday, January 30, 2008
San Blas tomorrow
Alright, I got all my details straight now. I leave at 5:30am tomorrow for Archipelago San Blas. It is an area, also known as Kuna Yala, that has some 400 little islands and is inhabited by the Kuna people. I believe the Kuna actually came from Colombia originally. They are known for their textiles -- moreso the applique work they do.
I will go by Jeep on a bumpy road, some 4 or 5 hours later, the Jeep will drop me off at a river. Then I meet a guy in a small boat to take me to wherever I end up. The 3 day/2 night tour plus the Jeep transport will cost $95. Pretty good, compared to the $450+ other places are charging!
I am not excited to wake up at 5am, but I am excited to get out of the city. I told one of my roommates that I was am going to San Blas, and he said that it is one of those places you have no idea still exists. So that is good to hear.
I also want to go with a tour because of what I have read about the islands. The Kuna Yala is an autonomous region that is not controlled by the Panamanian coast guard. So some of the drug traffickers from Colombia go by boat and then stay on some of the islands. Not really advisable for me to go alone on that note!
Yay! Beaches and blue water!!!
PS. I will be back in Panama City on Feb 2nd.
I will go by Jeep on a bumpy road, some 4 or 5 hours later, the Jeep will drop me off at a river. Then I meet a guy in a small boat to take me to wherever I end up. The 3 day/2 night tour plus the Jeep transport will cost $95. Pretty good, compared to the $450+ other places are charging!
I am not excited to wake up at 5am, but I am excited to get out of the city. I told one of my roommates that I was am going to San Blas, and he said that it is one of those places you have no idea still exists. So that is good to hear.
I also want to go with a tour because of what I have read about the islands. The Kuna Yala is an autonomous region that is not controlled by the Panamanian coast guard. So some of the drug traffickers from Colombia go by boat and then stay on some of the islands. Not really advisable for me to go alone on that note!
Yay! Beaches and blue water!!!
PS. I will be back in Panama City on Feb 2nd.
My adventure to the Panama Canal (and Casco Viejo)
I began the day by asking Zuly to book my trip to Archipelago San Blas for tomorrow. I plan on returning on the 2nd of February for the night, then will fly out to Bocas del Toro.
The trip to San Blas will be a "rustic" trip, which...well...I guess I will find out and see what that means. I will go overland to Cartí by a Jeep. There are some rough roads and a (or a few) river crossings as well. That should be interesting. The Jeep trip should be about 3-4 hours. I will do a homestay for a few days -- which means I think I get a hut with a hammock. But it is a cheap tour. The other nicer tours, where you stay in hotels cost $450+. Something I cannot really afford on this trip. Instead, I will do San Blas cheaply, then I will splurge in Bocas del Toro. The no A/C and not hot water here is getting a tad old. Sweating like crazy! So splurge in Bocas. That will be the deal.
After I got that sorted, I decided to head out to check out the Panama Canal. I used Zulys directions. Get the Plaza 5 de Mayo bus in front of McDonalds. Then take an orange bus to the Miraflores locks. But then you have to walk 500 meters to the entrance.
Sounds easy, huh? I waited quite a while for the bus. Many busses passed, even the Dell employee bus. And finally, the 5 de Mayo bus came by. I hopped on. The busses here are old school busses like from the US. They are painted colorfully outside. Some are decorated a bit on the inside. I was the last person off the bus.
I walked around and found the Caja de Ahorras building, then walked behind it to find the orange busses. I found one marked Paraiso and told the guy to let me off at the Miraflores locks. We sat in the bus before it took off. More people got on. This fat guy sat beside me, but decided that he wanted more of my seat. I was squished in the corner, hot, 90+ degrees out and high humidity, squashed by a guy whose ass demanded more seat. He of course had no concept of personal space and continued to invade mine by leaning his elbows on me. Luckily, we took off and a few stops later, he was off the bus.
The bus dropped me off at the sign for Miraflores locks. I followed the arrow uphill, following 4 guys as well. They looked pretty harmless. Otherwise, it seems a bit unnerving as no one else was on the road. We got to a security guard. The 4 guys worked there, so they went off to the left. The security guard was letting cars through. Then I asked him where to go for the visitors center. He told me, keep going, pass the bridge, and then up the stairs. That got me to the parking lot, which I had to walk across to get to the visitors center.
I got in, no problem. Luckily, they broke a $50 for me..yay! The lady told me that the last ship is going through and that I should go to the 4th floor for the observation deck -- it is the best place to see it. I got there only to find out that I had missed it. It was a cruise ship, already on the other side of the locks, working its way with a tugboat at its side, to the other side of the canal.
Regardless, it is quite an engineering phenomenon to look at. The locks are HUGE. The canal is narrow at the locks, then opens up on both sides. It is quite fascinating.
After following hoards of French tour groups around, I broke free and went to watch the little movie in Spanish. Ahhh...the AC felt so good! Then I went through the museum.
Definitely worth doing if you ever find yourself in Panama City. As I was leaving, one of the security guards by the visitors center stopped me. We talked. And damn, I got picked up by an old man security guard! I told him that I was going to check out Casco Viejo, and old part of town. He offered me a ride, free, in his car. I was like..um...no.
I continued walking down the same way I came up, got honked at by a few taxis passing by, and decided to splurge for $3 on one to go from the Miraflores locks to the Casco Viejo area.
I walked around the Casco Viejo area -- which is quite safe during the day because there are tons of police around. Once again, I think I followed the same French tour groups from spot to spot. But it was fun gawking at the hoards of tourists. I passed by one area where Kuna women and their children were selling clothes and jewelry. They ignored me. But one of the kids said with excitement, "The gringos are coming!!!" in Spanish, of course. The kids gathered and did a song and dance for the hoards of gringos. I smiled at one of the older ladies who was selling her wares. I thought it was funny. And I am glad that I dont stand out so much here.
In Casco Viejo, I saw some old ruins of churches, Plaza Francia, and Plaza de Independencia. I also could see the skyscraper lined Panama City skyline.
I wandered off, got myself lost, and found myself in a local market. Ahhh...that is what I want to see -- life as it is. I love going to markets, strolling around.
I did not buy anything this time, since my limit on the Air Panama flight from Panama City to Bocas del Toro is 26 pounds. But rather found myself amused by the everyday mundane. I had a chicken burger and soda for $1 on a street corner from a street vendor. Wandered off, and got lost even more. I got so lost that I could not even find myself on the map. So I took a cab back from wherever I was back to the Congrejo area.
It was the cab ride from hell. I seriously thought I was going to die. This guy was absolutely nuts, swerving in and out of traffic (bad traffic, to), honking (which they all do), braking quickly, and cursing at other cabbies to suck his nuts (in Spanish). I was glad to get back in one piece.
And here I am at the hostel. Finally cooled down from my sweatyness. Other people are thinking the same -- it is too damn hot out to do anything. So a lot of people here vegging out.
I will have to go out later and buy some supplies for San Blas, and make some reservations for Bocas del Toro. But I will be unreachable for a few days. Soak in some sun, relax, live simply, sleep in a hammock...
The trip to San Blas will be a "rustic" trip, which...well...I guess I will find out and see what that means. I will go overland to Cartí by a Jeep. There are some rough roads and a (or a few) river crossings as well. That should be interesting. The Jeep trip should be about 3-4 hours. I will do a homestay for a few days -- which means I think I get a hut with a hammock. But it is a cheap tour. The other nicer tours, where you stay in hotels cost $450+. Something I cannot really afford on this trip. Instead, I will do San Blas cheaply, then I will splurge in Bocas del Toro. The no A/C and not hot water here is getting a tad old. Sweating like crazy! So splurge in Bocas. That will be the deal.
After I got that sorted, I decided to head out to check out the Panama Canal. I used Zulys directions. Get the Plaza 5 de Mayo bus in front of McDonalds. Then take an orange bus to the Miraflores locks. But then you have to walk 500 meters to the entrance.
Sounds easy, huh? I waited quite a while for the bus. Many busses passed, even the Dell employee bus. And finally, the 5 de Mayo bus came by. I hopped on. The busses here are old school busses like from the US. They are painted colorfully outside. Some are decorated a bit on the inside. I was the last person off the bus.
I walked around and found the Caja de Ahorras building, then walked behind it to find the orange busses. I found one marked Paraiso and told the guy to let me off at the Miraflores locks. We sat in the bus before it took off. More people got on. This fat guy sat beside me, but decided that he wanted more of my seat. I was squished in the corner, hot, 90+ degrees out and high humidity, squashed by a guy whose ass demanded more seat. He of course had no concept of personal space and continued to invade mine by leaning his elbows on me. Luckily, we took off and a few stops later, he was off the bus.
The bus dropped me off at the sign for Miraflores locks. I followed the arrow uphill, following 4 guys as well. They looked pretty harmless. Otherwise, it seems a bit unnerving as no one else was on the road. We got to a security guard. The 4 guys worked there, so they went off to the left. The security guard was letting cars through. Then I asked him where to go for the visitors center. He told me, keep going, pass the bridge, and then up the stairs. That got me to the parking lot, which I had to walk across to get to the visitors center.
I got in, no problem. Luckily, they broke a $50 for me..yay! The lady told me that the last ship is going through and that I should go to the 4th floor for the observation deck -- it is the best place to see it. I got there only to find out that I had missed it. It was a cruise ship, already on the other side of the locks, working its way with a tugboat at its side, to the other side of the canal.
Regardless, it is quite an engineering phenomenon to look at. The locks are HUGE. The canal is narrow at the locks, then opens up on both sides. It is quite fascinating.
After following hoards of French tour groups around, I broke free and went to watch the little movie in Spanish. Ahhh...the AC felt so good! Then I went through the museum.
Definitely worth doing if you ever find yourself in Panama City. As I was leaving, one of the security guards by the visitors center stopped me. We talked. And damn, I got picked up by an old man security guard! I told him that I was going to check out Casco Viejo, and old part of town. He offered me a ride, free, in his car. I was like..um...no.
I continued walking down the same way I came up, got honked at by a few taxis passing by, and decided to splurge for $3 on one to go from the Miraflores locks to the Casco Viejo area.
I walked around the Casco Viejo area -- which is quite safe during the day because there are tons of police around. Once again, I think I followed the same French tour groups from spot to spot. But it was fun gawking at the hoards of tourists. I passed by one area where Kuna women and their children were selling clothes and jewelry. They ignored me. But one of the kids said with excitement, "The gringos are coming!!!" in Spanish, of course. The kids gathered and did a song and dance for the hoards of gringos. I smiled at one of the older ladies who was selling her wares. I thought it was funny. And I am glad that I dont stand out so much here.
In Casco Viejo, I saw some old ruins of churches, Plaza Francia, and Plaza de Independencia. I also could see the skyscraper lined Panama City skyline.
I wandered off, got myself lost, and found myself in a local market. Ahhh...that is what I want to see -- life as it is. I love going to markets, strolling around.
I did not buy anything this time, since my limit on the Air Panama flight from Panama City to Bocas del Toro is 26 pounds. But rather found myself amused by the everyday mundane. I had a chicken burger and soda for $1 on a street corner from a street vendor. Wandered off, and got lost even more. I got so lost that I could not even find myself on the map. So I took a cab back from wherever I was back to the Congrejo area.
It was the cab ride from hell. I seriously thought I was going to die. This guy was absolutely nuts, swerving in and out of traffic (bad traffic, to), honking (which they all do), braking quickly, and cursing at other cabbies to suck his nuts (in Spanish). I was glad to get back in one piece.
And here I am at the hostel. Finally cooled down from my sweatyness. Other people are thinking the same -- it is too damn hot out to do anything. So a lot of people here vegging out.
I will have to go out later and buy some supplies for San Blas, and make some reservations for Bocas del Toro. But I will be unreachable for a few days. Soak in some sun, relax, live simply, sleep in a hammock...
Tuesday, January 29, 2008
Strangely Panama City
Sometimes I go places to get away from what is American - the mass consumerism, the fancy cars, the massive buildings...but sometimes I feel like I am not far away from it.
Panama City - the city of shiny new BMWs, KFC, McDonalds, Office Max, and the richie richer stores that are all over America, and not to mention cranes and highrises everywhere. It is hard to believe that I am in Central America with all of those reminders of something I wanted to get away from. And the currency -- the US dollar. Not to mention that things are expensive, too. The only difference is the language and trying to cross the road (think frogger).
I guess you have to thank the expats for that. Thanks expats.
That was my first impression. Tomorrow, I will go a wandering about, check out the canal, the old area of town, then hopefully leave to a different area of Panama the next day...
Panama City - the city of shiny new BMWs, KFC, McDonalds, Office Max, and the richie richer stores that are all over America, and not to mention cranes and highrises everywhere. It is hard to believe that I am in Central America with all of those reminders of something I wanted to get away from. And the currency -- the US dollar. Not to mention that things are expensive, too. The only difference is the language and trying to cross the road (think frogger).
I guess you have to thank the expats for that. Thanks expats.
That was my first impression. Tomorrow, I will go a wandering about, check out the canal, the old area of town, then hopefully leave to a different area of Panama the next day...
I made it to Panama!
Just letting you guys that I made it to Panama City a little over an hour ago.
It has already been interesting. My flight from Austin to Houston was delayed..not to mention that I had 45 minutes to connect. I was a bit concerned. We landed in Houston at 8:25am, were standing in the plane waiting for them to open the doors...and my next flight - Houston to Panama City was supposed to start boarding at 8:25am.
But luck was on my side this time. The Panama City flight was only 3 gates away from where my Houston flight landed. I had enough time to walk over to the gate, sit down for 2 minutes (yes 2 minutes!!!), then start boarding. It was close. And of course, I did not want a repeat of Africa...I was worried that my luggage wouldnt make the flight. Oh the anticipation...
I arrived in Panama City around 2pm. Visa, immigration, luggage. I waited and waited and waited...Yes!!! My backpack made it! I was a happy camper. On through customs and out to find transport to the city.
I am staying at Zulys and did as suggested -- went upstairs and tried to find a taxi for $15, but they were going to charge $25. I bargained him down to $20, but I passed. Instead, I did a shared cab to the city for $11.
And another mistake on my part about money...I did not realize until late last night that the dollar is used here. I am kind of screwed. I brought some big bills that are going to be hard to change. Must hit the atms...well, I will figure it out.
All right, I think it is time to hit the market, find some water (I am sweating like a pig!!), then explore a bit.
It has already been interesting. My flight from Austin to Houston was delayed..not to mention that I had 45 minutes to connect. I was a bit concerned. We landed in Houston at 8:25am, were standing in the plane waiting for them to open the doors...and my next flight - Houston to Panama City was supposed to start boarding at 8:25am.
But luck was on my side this time. The Panama City flight was only 3 gates away from where my Houston flight landed. I had enough time to walk over to the gate, sit down for 2 minutes (yes 2 minutes!!!), then start boarding. It was close. And of course, I did not want a repeat of Africa...I was worried that my luggage wouldnt make the flight. Oh the anticipation...
I arrived in Panama City around 2pm. Visa, immigration, luggage. I waited and waited and waited...Yes!!! My backpack made it! I was a happy camper. On through customs and out to find transport to the city.
I am staying at Zulys and did as suggested -- went upstairs and tried to find a taxi for $15, but they were going to charge $25. I bargained him down to $20, but I passed. Instead, I did a shared cab to the city for $11.
And another mistake on my part about money...I did not realize until late last night that the dollar is used here. I am kind of screwed. I brought some big bills that are going to be hard to change. Must hit the atms...well, I will figure it out.
All right, I think it is time to hit the market, find some water (I am sweating like a pig!!), then explore a bit.
Sunday, January 27, 2008
T minus 2 days...
That's right, two more days! I leave Tuesday at the butt crack of dawn, so that gives me all of tomorrow to work with to get everything sorted out. I still have a lot to do, though...
Packing...hummmm...Haven't quite gotten there yet. I have a lot of things sorted out, but not all together. I still need to buy a few things, too. I'll pack tomorrow. But surely, it should all fit in a 40L Lowe Alpine pack I got for $8 at a once a month thrift center a few years back..well, plus a small daypack for my carry on.
The packing for this trip is a bit tricky. Hot weather, beaches, malaria/dengue fever mosquitoes, jungles, hiking. It doesn't sound like it should be tricky. Well here's the tricky part -- school. I have to dress up for the school -- look decent. I guess they don't want you to look like a backpacker even though you are. I bought a bunch of clothes from Goodwill and tailored them to my size. I have enough for a weeks worth, so I will be wearing the same clothes every week for the 4 weeks of the program. But hey, at least I won't look like a grotty backpacker!
I will pack the school clothes in a separate bag and have Sean bring them down for me. He is meeting me up on Feb 9th. That way, I won't have to carry them around in the beginning of my trip. I'll do a clothing swap -- swap out some of the junky stuff for the 'fancy' stuff. I'll have to figure it out somehow.
Money...I don't have much of it. Doh. Ill planning on my part...
I am estimating that the total trip cost will be somewhere between $5000-5500. A wide range, I know. But I expect to spend at least $5000. The cost of this trip rivals the cost of going to Africa for 3 weeks. Not bad for 11 weeks, I guess.
Here's a bit of the breakdown:
- Plane ticket: $ 710 (paid)
- TEFL course: $1690 (paid)
- apt rent during school: $ 600 (expensive, I know!!)
- internal flights: $ 180 (possibly)
- $30/per diem (49 days): $1470 (food/lodging/transport)
- $10/per diem (28 days): $ 280 (I have to eat when I'm in school!)
That all comes out to $4930. I'm sure that I'll want to do some side trips, which will probably total a few hundred. Not to mention surfing. I'll probably end up renting boards whenever I get the chance. Oh yeah, and I'll need lessons, too. Factor in some more cashola.
Luckily, I've already paid $2400 out of the budget. What do I have in the bank? Uh...$1600. That comes out to a total of $4000. I'll have to have Sean infuse my account with some money somewhere maybe a month into my trip. I do have cash in the bank, it is just tied up in CDs that don't come up for a while...so I'll pay him back at a later date. I'll figure it out as it comes.
These countries are more expensive than I anticipated. I do miss the under $2/night lodging in Bolivia..oh, how I miss those days!
Alright, time to organize...
Packing...hummmm...Haven't quite gotten there yet. I have a lot of things sorted out, but not all together. I still need to buy a few things, too. I'll pack tomorrow. But surely, it should all fit in a 40L Lowe Alpine pack I got for $8 at a once a month thrift center a few years back..well, plus a small daypack for my carry on.
The packing for this trip is a bit tricky. Hot weather, beaches, malaria/dengue fever mosquitoes, jungles, hiking. It doesn't sound like it should be tricky. Well here's the tricky part -- school. I have to dress up for the school -- look decent. I guess they don't want you to look like a backpacker even though you are. I bought a bunch of clothes from Goodwill and tailored them to my size. I have enough for a weeks worth, so I will be wearing the same clothes every week for the 4 weeks of the program. But hey, at least I won't look like a grotty backpacker!
I will pack the school clothes in a separate bag and have Sean bring them down for me. He is meeting me up on Feb 9th. That way, I won't have to carry them around in the beginning of my trip. I'll do a clothing swap -- swap out some of the junky stuff for the 'fancy' stuff. I'll have to figure it out somehow.
Money...I don't have much of it. Doh. Ill planning on my part...
I am estimating that the total trip cost will be somewhere between $5000-5500. A wide range, I know. But I expect to spend at least $5000. The cost of this trip rivals the cost of going to Africa for 3 weeks. Not bad for 11 weeks, I guess.
Here's a bit of the breakdown:
- Plane ticket: $ 710 (paid)
- TEFL course: $1690 (paid)
- apt rent during school: $ 600 (expensive, I know!!)
- internal flights: $ 180 (possibly)
- $30/per diem (49 days): $1470 (food/lodging/transport)
- $10/per diem (28 days): $ 280 (I have to eat when I'm in school!)
That all comes out to $4930. I'm sure that I'll want to do some side trips, which will probably total a few hundred. Not to mention surfing. I'll probably end up renting boards whenever I get the chance. Oh yeah, and I'll need lessons, too. Factor in some more cashola.
Luckily, I've already paid $2400 out of the budget. What do I have in the bank? Uh...$1600. That comes out to a total of $4000. I'll have to have Sean infuse my account with some money somewhere maybe a month into my trip. I do have cash in the bank, it is just tied up in CDs that don't come up for a while...so I'll pay him back at a later date. I'll figure it out as it comes.
These countries are more expensive than I anticipated. I do miss the under $2/night lodging in Bolivia..oh, how I miss those days!
Alright, time to organize...
Monday, January 21, 2008
The big trip - Intro
"Pura Vida" -- Spanish for "pure life". It describes the relaxed style of the Ticos, the Costa Ricans. Life is good. Another blogger, Gesi, defines Pura Vida so well...
I am quitting my job as a bench jeweler. I have been there for about 3.5 years. Commuting 40 miles a day for less than $20K a year has worn down on me -- 10 hour work days (including commute). It's been a fun job, I've learned a lot. Change. Change is good. I am ready to start a new adventure. I will start my own business in April. But until then, I am ready to live the pura vida lifestyle for the next few months...
I started this blog to chronicle my journey through Panama and Costa Rica. This will be an 11 week trip starting on January 29th. I will travel through Panama for about 10-11 days (too short!), then cross overland to Costa Rica and make my way to Manuel Antonio on Feb 10th. Sean, my husband, will meet me there. We'll attend our friend's wedding on the 11th, then travel around Costa Rica for 2 weeks together. He will then leave, and I'll be on my own for a few weeks. On March 10th, I will start a TEFL (Teaching English as a Foreign Language) course that will last 4 weeks. After the course ends, I will have 3 days to make my way to San Jose, Costa Rica, to fly back home.
Initial plannings...
29 Jan - Tue - arrive PTY (Panama City) - 2:05pm - Overnight at Zuly's
30 Jan - Wed - Panama City - Overnight at Zuly's
31 Jan - Thur - fly to El Porvenir? -- San Blas Archipelago - explore the Kuna
1 Feb - Fri - San Blas Archipelago - explore the Kuna culture
2 Feb - Sat - leave San Blas, fly to Panama City, then fly to Bocas del Toro
3 Feb - Sun - Bocas del Toro
4 Feb - Mon - Bocas del Toro
5 Feb - Tues - Bocas del Toro
6 Feb - Wed - Bocas del Toro
7 Feb - Thur - David
8 Feb - Fri - David?
9 Feb - Sat - cross the border into CR, overnighting Uvita?
10 Feb - Sun - Manuel Antonio - overnight Costa Verde II (complete, utter splurge)
11 Feb - Mon - Manuel Antonio - Sara's wedding - overnight Costa Verde II (complete, utter splurge)
12 Feb - to Mar 8 -- TBA
Mar 9 to Apr 5 - back in Manuel Antonio, studying for TEFL course
Apr 8 - Tues - fly back home
It's a mentality. It's a mindset. It's a lifestyle. It's when everything, everything, everything is in harmony. It's when life is a stroll. It's when even amidst the numerous activities and projects and effort to get things done, to take the right steps, to accomplish what you thought you've always wanted, you're not whizzing about in a dizzy losing sight of why you were running and spinning in the first place!
Pura vida is life at a pace that makes you enjoy every moment, every beauty that surrounds you, that you have, that is yet to come...the moment it comes...not before, not after. It's when we, as humans, take our place in the grand scheme of Life; we are part of nature. Our lives are part of something bigger and greater...We are the most important things we have, and the relationships we build, the most cherished. And in recognizing this - lightness, peace, serenity, joy settles in...tranquilo...tranquilo.
Pura vida is seeing everything and everyone in your life new; it's filtering everything you return to from vacation, and everything that comes to you with - Is this what truly matters in life? Pura vida is not limited to the beautiful blue beaches, the lush green trees, the colorful flowers and sea life...pura vida is life right here...right now.
I am quitting my job as a bench jeweler. I have been there for about 3.5 years. Commuting 40 miles a day for less than $20K a year has worn down on me -- 10 hour work days (including commute). It's been a fun job, I've learned a lot. Change. Change is good. I am ready to start a new adventure. I will start my own business in April. But until then, I am ready to live the pura vida lifestyle for the next few months...
I started this blog to chronicle my journey through Panama and Costa Rica. This will be an 11 week trip starting on January 29th. I will travel through Panama for about 10-11 days (too short!), then cross overland to Costa Rica and make my way to Manuel Antonio on Feb 10th. Sean, my husband, will meet me there. We'll attend our friend's wedding on the 11th, then travel around Costa Rica for 2 weeks together. He will then leave, and I'll be on my own for a few weeks. On March 10th, I will start a TEFL (Teaching English as a Foreign Language) course that will last 4 weeks. After the course ends, I will have 3 days to make my way to San Jose, Costa Rica, to fly back home.
Initial plannings...
29 Jan - Tue - arrive PTY (Panama City) - 2:05pm - Overnight at Zuly's
30 Jan - Wed - Panama City - Overnight at Zuly's
31 Jan - Thur - fly to El Porvenir? -- San Blas Archipelago - explore the Kuna
1 Feb - Fri - San Blas Archipelago - explore the Kuna culture
2 Feb - Sat - leave San Blas, fly to Panama City, then fly to Bocas del Toro
3 Feb - Sun - Bocas del Toro
4 Feb - Mon - Bocas del Toro
5 Feb - Tues - Bocas del Toro
6 Feb - Wed - Bocas del Toro
7 Feb - Thur - David
8 Feb - Fri - David?
9 Feb - Sat - cross the border into CR, overnighting Uvita?
10 Feb - Sun - Manuel Antonio - overnight Costa Verde II (complete, utter splurge)
11 Feb - Mon - Manuel Antonio - Sara's wedding - overnight Costa Verde II (complete, utter splurge)
12 Feb - to Mar 8 -- TBA
Mar 9 to Apr 5 - back in Manuel Antonio, studying for TEFL course
Apr 8 - Tues - fly back home
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