Wednesday, January 30, 2008

San Blas tomorrow

Alright, I got all my details straight now. I leave at 5:30am tomorrow for Archipelago San Blas. It is an area, also known as Kuna Yala, that has some 400 little islands and is inhabited by the Kuna people. I believe the Kuna actually came from Colombia originally. They are known for their textiles -- moreso the applique work they do.

I will go by Jeep on a bumpy road, some 4 or 5 hours later, the Jeep will drop me off at a river. Then I meet a guy in a small boat to take me to wherever I end up. The 3 day/2 night tour plus the Jeep transport will cost $95. Pretty good, compared to the $450+ other places are charging!

I am not excited to wake up at 5am, but I am excited to get out of the city. I told one of my roommates that I was am going to San Blas, and he said that it is one of those places you have no idea still exists. So that is good to hear.

I also want to go with a tour because of what I have read about the islands. The Kuna Yala is an autonomous region that is not controlled by the Panamanian coast guard. So some of the drug traffickers from Colombia go by boat and then stay on some of the islands. Not really advisable for me to go alone on that note!

Yay! Beaches and blue water!!!

PS. I will be back in Panama City on Feb 2nd.

My adventure to the Panama Canal (and Casco Viejo)

I began the day by asking Zuly to book my trip to Archipelago San Blas for tomorrow. I plan on returning on the 2nd of February for the night, then will fly out to Bocas del Toro.

The trip to San Blas will be a "rustic" trip, which...well...I guess I will find out and see what that means. I will go overland to Cartí by a Jeep. There are some rough roads and a (or a few) river crossings as well. That should be interesting. The Jeep trip should be about 3-4 hours. I will do a homestay for a few days -- which means I think I get a hut with a hammock. But it is a cheap tour. The other nicer tours, where you stay in hotels cost $450+. Something I cannot really afford on this trip. Instead, I will do San Blas cheaply, then I will splurge in Bocas del Toro. The no A/C and not hot water here is getting a tad old. Sweating like crazy! So splurge in Bocas. That will be the deal.

After I got that sorted, I decided to head out to check out the Panama Canal. I used Zulys directions. Get the Plaza 5 de Mayo bus in front of McDonalds. Then take an orange bus to the Miraflores locks. But then you have to walk 500 meters to the entrance.

Sounds easy, huh? I waited quite a while for the bus. Many busses passed, even the Dell employee bus. And finally, the 5 de Mayo bus came by. I hopped on. The busses here are old school busses like from the US. They are painted colorfully outside. Some are decorated a bit on the inside. I was the last person off the bus.

I walked around and found the Caja de Ahorras building, then walked behind it to find the orange busses. I found one marked Paraiso and told the guy to let me off at the Miraflores locks. We sat in the bus before it took off. More people got on. This fat guy sat beside me, but decided that he wanted more of my seat. I was squished in the corner, hot, 90+ degrees out and high humidity, squashed by a guy whose ass demanded more seat. He of course had no concept of personal space and continued to invade mine by leaning his elbows on me. Luckily, we took off and a few stops later, he was off the bus.

The bus dropped me off at the sign for Miraflores locks. I followed the arrow uphill, following 4 guys as well. They looked pretty harmless. Otherwise, it seems a bit unnerving as no one else was on the road. We got to a security guard. The 4 guys worked there, so they went off to the left. The security guard was letting cars through. Then I asked him where to go for the visitors center. He told me, keep going, pass the bridge, and then up the stairs. That got me to the parking lot, which I had to walk across to get to the visitors center.

I got in, no problem. Luckily, they broke a $50 for me..yay! The lady told me that the last ship is going through and that I should go to the 4th floor for the observation deck -- it is the best place to see it. I got there only to find out that I had missed it. It was a cruise ship, already on the other side of the locks, working its way with a tugboat at its side, to the other side of the canal.

Regardless, it is quite an engineering phenomenon to look at. The locks are HUGE. The canal is narrow at the locks, then opens up on both sides. It is quite fascinating.

After following hoards of French tour groups around, I broke free and went to watch the little movie in Spanish. Ahhh...the AC felt so good! Then I went through the museum.

Definitely worth doing if you ever find yourself in Panama City. As I was leaving, one of the security guards by the visitors center stopped me. We talked. And damn, I got picked up by an old man security guard! I told him that I was going to check out Casco Viejo, and old part of town. He offered me a ride, free, in his car. I was like..um...no.

I continued walking down the same way I came up, got honked at by a few taxis passing by, and decided to splurge for $3 on one to go from the Miraflores locks to the Casco Viejo area.

I walked around the Casco Viejo area -- which is quite safe during the day because there are tons of police around. Once again, I think I followed the same French tour groups from spot to spot. But it was fun gawking at the hoards of tourists. I passed by one area where Kuna women and their children were selling clothes and jewelry. They ignored me. But one of the kids said with excitement, "The gringos are coming!!!" in Spanish, of course. The kids gathered and did a song and dance for the hoards of gringos. I smiled at one of the older ladies who was selling her wares. I thought it was funny. And I am glad that I dont stand out so much here.

In Casco Viejo, I saw some old ruins of churches, Plaza Francia, and Plaza de Independencia. I also could see the skyscraper lined Panama City skyline.

I wandered off, got myself lost, and found myself in a local market. Ahhh...that is what I want to see -- life as it is. I love going to markets, strolling around.

I did not buy anything this time, since my limit on the Air Panama flight from Panama City to Bocas del Toro is 26 pounds. But rather found myself amused by the everyday mundane. I had a chicken burger and soda for $1 on a street corner from a street vendor. Wandered off, and got lost even more. I got so lost that I could not even find myself on the map. So I took a cab back from wherever I was back to the Congrejo area.

It was the cab ride from hell. I seriously thought I was going to die. This guy was absolutely nuts, swerving in and out of traffic (bad traffic, to), honking (which they all do), braking quickly, and cursing at other cabbies to suck his nuts (in Spanish). I was glad to get back in one piece.

And here I am at the hostel. Finally cooled down from my sweatyness. Other people are thinking the same -- it is too damn hot out to do anything. So a lot of people here vegging out.

I will have to go out later and buy some supplies for San Blas, and make some reservations for Bocas del Toro. But I will be unreachable for a few days. Soak in some sun, relax, live simply, sleep in a hammock...

Tuesday, January 29, 2008

Strangely Panama City

Sometimes I go places to get away from what is American - the mass consumerism, the fancy cars, the massive buildings...but sometimes I feel like I am not far away from it.

Panama City - the city of shiny new BMWs, KFC, McDonalds, Office Max, and the richie richer stores that are all over America, and not to mention cranes and highrises everywhere. It is hard to believe that I am in Central America with all of those reminders of something I wanted to get away from. And the currency -- the US dollar. Not to mention that things are expensive, too. The only difference is the language and trying to cross the road (think frogger).

I guess you have to thank the expats for that. Thanks expats.

That was my first impression. Tomorrow, I will go a wandering about, check out the canal, the old area of town, then hopefully leave to a different area of Panama the next day...

I made it to Panama!

Just letting you guys that I made it to Panama City a little over an hour ago.

It has already been interesting. My flight from Austin to Houston was delayed..not to mention that I had 45 minutes to connect. I was a bit concerned. We landed in Houston at 8:25am, were standing in the plane waiting for them to open the doors...and my next flight - Houston to Panama City was supposed to start boarding at 8:25am.

But luck was on my side this time. The Panama City flight was only 3 gates away from where my Houston flight landed. I had enough time to walk over to the gate, sit down for 2 minutes (yes 2 minutes!!!), then start boarding. It was close. And of course, I did not want a repeat of Africa...I was worried that my luggage wouldnt make the flight. Oh the anticipation...

I arrived in Panama City around 2pm. Visa, immigration, luggage. I waited and waited and waited...Yes!!! My backpack made it! I was a happy camper. On through customs and out to find transport to the city.

I am staying at Zulys and did as suggested -- went upstairs and tried to find a taxi for $15, but they were going to charge $25. I bargained him down to $20, but I passed. Instead, I did a shared cab to the city for $11.

And another mistake on my part about money...I did not realize until late last night that the dollar is used here. I am kind of screwed. I brought some big bills that are going to be hard to change. Must hit the atms...well, I will figure it out.

All right, I think it is time to hit the market, find some water (I am sweating like a pig!!), then explore a bit.

Sunday, January 27, 2008

T minus 2 days...

That's right, two more days! I leave Tuesday at the butt crack of dawn, so that gives me all of tomorrow to work with to get everything sorted out. I still have a lot to do, though...

Packing...hummmm...Haven't quite gotten there yet. I have a lot of things sorted out, but not all together. I still need to buy a few things, too. I'll pack tomorrow. But surely, it should all fit in a 40L Lowe Alpine pack I got for $8 at a once a month thrift center a few years back..well, plus a small daypack for my carry on.

The packing for this trip is a bit tricky. Hot weather, beaches, malaria/dengue fever mosquitoes, jungles, hiking. It doesn't sound like it should be tricky. Well here's the tricky part -- school. I have to dress up for the school -- look decent. I guess they don't want you to look like a backpacker even though you are. I bought a bunch of clothes from Goodwill and tailored them to my size. I have enough for a weeks worth, so I will be wearing the same clothes every week for the 4 weeks of the program. But hey, at least I won't look like a grotty backpacker!

I will pack the school clothes in a separate bag and have Sean bring them down for me. He is meeting me up on Feb 9th. That way, I won't have to carry them around in the beginning of my trip. I'll do a clothing swap -- swap out some of the junky stuff for the 'fancy' stuff. I'll have to figure it out somehow.

Money...I don't have much of it. Doh. Ill planning on my part...

I am estimating that the total trip cost will be somewhere between $5000-5500. A wide range, I know. But I expect to spend at least $5000. The cost of this trip rivals the cost of going to Africa for 3 weeks. Not bad for 11 weeks, I guess.

Here's a bit of the breakdown:
- Plane ticket: $ 710 (paid)
- TEFL course: $1690 (paid)
- apt rent during school: $ 600 (expensive, I know!!)
- internal flights: $ 180 (possibly)
- $30/per diem (49 days): $1470 (food/lodging/transport)
- $10/per diem (28 days): $ 280 (I have to eat when I'm in school!)

That all comes out to $4930. I'm sure that I'll want to do some side trips, which will probably total a few hundred. Not to mention surfing. I'll probably end up renting boards whenever I get the chance. Oh yeah, and I'll need lessons, too. Factor in some more cashola.

Luckily, I've already paid $2400 out of the budget. What do I have in the bank? Uh...$1600. That comes out to a total of $4000. I'll have to have Sean infuse my account with some money somewhere maybe a month into my trip. I do have cash in the bank, it is just tied up in CDs that don't come up for a while...so I'll pay him back at a later date. I'll figure it out as it comes.

These countries are more expensive than I anticipated. I do miss the under $2/night lodging in Bolivia..oh, how I miss those days!

Alright, time to organize...

Monday, January 21, 2008

The big trip - Intro

"Pura Vida" -- Spanish for "pure life". It describes the relaxed style of the Ticos, the Costa Ricans. Life is good. Another blogger, Gesi, defines Pura Vida so well...

It's a mentality. It's a mindset. It's a lifestyle. It's when everything, everything, everything is in harmony. It's when life is a stroll. It's when even amidst the numerous activities and projects and effort to get things done, to take the right steps, to accomplish what you thought you've always wanted, you're not whizzing about in a dizzy losing sight of why you were running and spinning in the first place!

Pura vida is life at a pace that makes you enjoy every moment, every beauty that surrounds you, that you have, that is yet to come...the moment it comes...not before, not after. It's when we, as humans, take our place in the grand scheme of Life; we are part of nature. Our lives are part of something bigger and greater...We are the most important things we have, and the relationships we build, the most cherished. And in recognizing this - lightness, peace, serenity, joy settles in...tranquilo...tranquilo.

Pura vida is seeing everything and everyone in your life new; it's filtering everything you return to from vacation, and everything that comes to you with - Is this what truly matters in life? Pura vida is not limited to the beautiful blue beaches, the lush green trees, the colorful flowers and sea life...pura vida is life right here...right now.


I am quitting my job as a bench jeweler. I have been there for about 3.5 years. Commuting 40 miles a day for less than $20K a year has worn down on me -- 10 hour work days (including commute). It's been a fun job, I've learned a lot. Change. Change is good. I am ready to start a new adventure. I will start my own business in April. But until then, I am ready to live the pura vida lifestyle for the next few months...

I started this blog to chronicle my journey through Panama and Costa Rica. This will be an 11 week trip starting on January 29th. I will travel through Panama for about 10-11 days (too short!), then cross overland to Costa Rica and make my way to Manuel Antonio on Feb 10th. Sean, my husband, will meet me there. We'll attend our friend's wedding on the 11th, then travel around Costa Rica for 2 weeks together. He will then leave, and I'll be on my own for a few weeks. On March 10th, I will start a TEFL (Teaching English as a Foreign Language) course that will last 4 weeks. After the course ends, I will have 3 days to make my way to San Jose, Costa Rica, to fly back home.

Initial plannings...
29 Jan - Tue - arrive PTY (Panama City) - 2:05pm - Overnight at Zuly's
30 Jan - Wed - Panama City - Overnight at Zuly's
31 Jan - Thur - fly to El Porvenir? -- San Blas Archipelago - explore the Kuna
1 Feb - Fri - San Blas Archipelago - explore the Kuna culture
2 Feb - Sat - leave San Blas, fly to Panama City, then fly to Bocas del Toro
3 Feb - Sun - Bocas del Toro
4 Feb - Mon - Bocas del Toro
5 Feb - Tues - Bocas del Toro
6 Feb - Wed - Bocas del Toro
7 Feb - Thur - David
8 Feb - Fri - David?
9 Feb - Sat - cross the border into CR, overnighting Uvita?
10 Feb - Sun - Manuel Antonio - overnight Costa Verde II (complete, utter splurge)
11 Feb - Mon - Manuel Antonio - Sara's wedding - overnight Costa Verde II (complete, utter splurge)
12 Feb - to Mar 8 -- TBA
Mar 9 to Apr 5 - back in Manuel Antonio, studying for TEFL course
Apr 8 - Tues - fly back home