Wednesday, January 30, 2008

My adventure to the Panama Canal (and Casco Viejo)

I began the day by asking Zuly to book my trip to Archipelago San Blas for tomorrow. I plan on returning on the 2nd of February for the night, then will fly out to Bocas del Toro.

The trip to San Blas will be a "rustic" trip, which...well...I guess I will find out and see what that means. I will go overland to Cartí by a Jeep. There are some rough roads and a (or a few) river crossings as well. That should be interesting. The Jeep trip should be about 3-4 hours. I will do a homestay for a few days -- which means I think I get a hut with a hammock. But it is a cheap tour. The other nicer tours, where you stay in hotels cost $450+. Something I cannot really afford on this trip. Instead, I will do San Blas cheaply, then I will splurge in Bocas del Toro. The no A/C and not hot water here is getting a tad old. Sweating like crazy! So splurge in Bocas. That will be the deal.

After I got that sorted, I decided to head out to check out the Panama Canal. I used Zulys directions. Get the Plaza 5 de Mayo bus in front of McDonalds. Then take an orange bus to the Miraflores locks. But then you have to walk 500 meters to the entrance.

Sounds easy, huh? I waited quite a while for the bus. Many busses passed, even the Dell employee bus. And finally, the 5 de Mayo bus came by. I hopped on. The busses here are old school busses like from the US. They are painted colorfully outside. Some are decorated a bit on the inside. I was the last person off the bus.

I walked around and found the Caja de Ahorras building, then walked behind it to find the orange busses. I found one marked Paraiso and told the guy to let me off at the Miraflores locks. We sat in the bus before it took off. More people got on. This fat guy sat beside me, but decided that he wanted more of my seat. I was squished in the corner, hot, 90+ degrees out and high humidity, squashed by a guy whose ass demanded more seat. He of course had no concept of personal space and continued to invade mine by leaning his elbows on me. Luckily, we took off and a few stops later, he was off the bus.

The bus dropped me off at the sign for Miraflores locks. I followed the arrow uphill, following 4 guys as well. They looked pretty harmless. Otherwise, it seems a bit unnerving as no one else was on the road. We got to a security guard. The 4 guys worked there, so they went off to the left. The security guard was letting cars through. Then I asked him where to go for the visitors center. He told me, keep going, pass the bridge, and then up the stairs. That got me to the parking lot, which I had to walk across to get to the visitors center.

I got in, no problem. Luckily, they broke a $50 for me..yay! The lady told me that the last ship is going through and that I should go to the 4th floor for the observation deck -- it is the best place to see it. I got there only to find out that I had missed it. It was a cruise ship, already on the other side of the locks, working its way with a tugboat at its side, to the other side of the canal.

Regardless, it is quite an engineering phenomenon to look at. The locks are HUGE. The canal is narrow at the locks, then opens up on both sides. It is quite fascinating.

After following hoards of French tour groups around, I broke free and went to watch the little movie in Spanish. Ahhh...the AC felt so good! Then I went through the museum.

Definitely worth doing if you ever find yourself in Panama City. As I was leaving, one of the security guards by the visitors center stopped me. We talked. And damn, I got picked up by an old man security guard! I told him that I was going to check out Casco Viejo, and old part of town. He offered me a ride, free, in his car. I was like..um...no.

I continued walking down the same way I came up, got honked at by a few taxis passing by, and decided to splurge for $3 on one to go from the Miraflores locks to the Casco Viejo area.

I walked around the Casco Viejo area -- which is quite safe during the day because there are tons of police around. Once again, I think I followed the same French tour groups from spot to spot. But it was fun gawking at the hoards of tourists. I passed by one area where Kuna women and their children were selling clothes and jewelry. They ignored me. But one of the kids said with excitement, "The gringos are coming!!!" in Spanish, of course. The kids gathered and did a song and dance for the hoards of gringos. I smiled at one of the older ladies who was selling her wares. I thought it was funny. And I am glad that I dont stand out so much here.

In Casco Viejo, I saw some old ruins of churches, Plaza Francia, and Plaza de Independencia. I also could see the skyscraper lined Panama City skyline.

I wandered off, got myself lost, and found myself in a local market. Ahhh...that is what I want to see -- life as it is. I love going to markets, strolling around.

I did not buy anything this time, since my limit on the Air Panama flight from Panama City to Bocas del Toro is 26 pounds. But rather found myself amused by the everyday mundane. I had a chicken burger and soda for $1 on a street corner from a street vendor. Wandered off, and got lost even more. I got so lost that I could not even find myself on the map. So I took a cab back from wherever I was back to the Congrejo area.

It was the cab ride from hell. I seriously thought I was going to die. This guy was absolutely nuts, swerving in and out of traffic (bad traffic, to), honking (which they all do), braking quickly, and cursing at other cabbies to suck his nuts (in Spanish). I was glad to get back in one piece.

And here I am at the hostel. Finally cooled down from my sweatyness. Other people are thinking the same -- it is too damn hot out to do anything. So a lot of people here vegging out.

I will have to go out later and buy some supplies for San Blas, and make some reservations for Bocas del Toro. But I will be unreachable for a few days. Soak in some sun, relax, live simply, sleep in a hammock...

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